Rivets and rhinestones, biker jackets and hand-braided bags — The Leather Fashion Show 2019 at the ITC Grand Chola, was a showcase of what’s trending in the world of leather.

The event, a part of the India International Leather Fair had stylish models walking the ramp, but the real stars were the handcrafted bags, footwear and accessories, from home-grown industries and a few international players.

According to Invest India, an investment promotion and facilitation agency, “The Indian leather industry accounts for 12.9% of the world’s production of hide, with a massive three billion square foot of leather produced annually.”

The leather fashion industry though, is still taking baby steps. Big players are slowly moving from the export space into the domestic retail market. “We have made the leap from just being superior raw material suppliers to catering to trends in the market. It is still in its infancy, but Indian leather fashion is coming of age, though we require a lot more capital and focus on building brand identities,” explains Yavar Dhala, managing director of Chennai-based Forward Shoes India.

A different market

Adrian D’Souza, managing director of Bengaluru-based Deccan Leather Fashions, concurs, “Creating your own brand requires deep pockets and the patience to establish yourself. We create high-end leather jackets for Armani and Versace, but breaking into the Indian market is tough. Here consumers are looking at leather as a practical buy not luxury. So natural leather jackets with a vintage, distressed look are not an easy sell.”

The leather garment industry is still trying to make its foray into fashion, while leather bags and shoes fly quicker off the shelves. “It’s an opportune moment to connect with the consumer directly. We offer better options than China, and are now focussing on soft skills and increasing value so that we can market our products under our own brand identity,” adds Israr Mecca, vice-chairman, Indian Finished Leather Manufacturers and Exporters Association ( IFLMEA).

The India International Leather Fair, that takes place annually (this year it was between February 1 and 3 at the Chennai Trade Center) has been showcasing pure leather products for over 34 years, but now, synthetic alternatives, like leatherite and vegan leather are slowly becoming part of the collection. “We have to dabble with alternatives now, since they offer better avenues for customisation,” adds Dhala.

“We use linen, canvas and other material, and offer different price points as well. Earlier in the West, leather was a necessity, to keep warm during winters, now with man-made alternatives, they’ve changed the rules of the game,” adds D’Souza. This is an opportunity for local brands to put their best foot forward. KR Vijayan, president of the Indian Shoe Federation, and owner of handcrafted leather brand Kethini, says “The Government is supporting us as we try to carve a niche for our brands. I think consumers are willing to pay for leather goods, if we keep up with the trends.”

Smriti Sain, who runs Chiaroscuro in New Delhi says it’s an exciting time to be in the handbag business. “We are a single-artisan, made in India brand and we find it’s a great diverse market out there. People are willing to spend on authentic leather products made well.”

Dilip Kapur, founder-director, Hidesign, says going back to our roots is the only way to springboard into the future. “Indian vegetable tanned leather from South India called ‘East India leather’ was considered the greatest leather in the world. We have to build on our heritage, slowly moving away from being a contract manufacturer to having a brand identity in leather goods.”