The Surprising Truth Behind Wine Pricing

In search of well made national-brand wines to recommend, our wine columnist uncovered wheeling and dealing at the wholesale level that profoundly affects who drinks what, where—and for how much

I LIVE IN a wine-rich part of the country, home to many good wine merchants. Some oenophiles, however, live in states where the government controls wine distribution, and thus access to certain brands. Others live far from wine shops and buy their bottles at grocery stores. I know this because I’ve received many letters from readers over the years requesting recommendations of wines produced in large quantities that are easy to find and also well made and reasonably priced—wines known in the trade as national brands.

I found...