Goyna Bori revives Kolkata’s taste for tradition

Like some films remain your eternal favourite, some ancient art forms too never die. No matter what development does to technological progression, a work of art is a thing of beauty forever. Goyna Bori, a dying art form, is a gem of the folk cuisine from the district of east Midnapore. These ornamental, crispy snacks are made from a specific lentil paste and sundried in the process over a bed of poppy seeds. This beautiful Goyna Bori has also made a cameo in Satyajit Ray’s Agantuk! “This tradition is worth treasuring. It’s nice to learn art forms like origami but we should also know our own culture well. I’m keen to hold Goyna Bori workshops at Udayan Kalakendra,” said Mamata Shankar.
But still the fact remains that it is a dying art. It needs to be preserved and an interest inculcated among the youngsters for that to happen. Once popular with the aristocrats of Midnapore, this art form is losing its place in our cuisine and thus a part of our culture is on the wane. “Chalchitra Academy is organising a one-day workshop on Goyna Bori on January 27. Two Goyna Bori designers will share their craft and stories with the participants. We are expecting a lot of youngsters among those interested,” said Mrinal Mandal, artist, curator and founder of the academy.
True, the skill needs to be passed on. Seeing the excitement among the youngsters is heartening for all and it raises hope. “I’ll be singing at the Goyna Bori workshop and learning the skill to make it. It’s a great opportunity for me to try something new since I love eating bori. It’s a delicacy I feel. When I was young, I would see Goyna Bori being prepared at home in the Sunderbans,” said Nilanjan Mishra, an MA first year student of Calcutta University, and added, “Now, it’s a rarity. I have also heard that people would find this food art so exquisite that they would display
it as a showpiece at home rather than eat it. Besides, Rabindranath Tagore, Abanindranath Tagore and Nandalal Basu also wanted to preserve this culture.”


While for youngsters hailing from the outskirts of the city it is still a known art, many from Kolkata are amazed to know that such a thing exists. But unique as it is, it attracts people with a taste for tradition. “I have not heard about it before this workshop came up. Since I live in the city, I’m a little disconnected from my cultural roots. So, I thought it would be a good idea to explore this opportunity to learn about Goyna Bori,” said Upasana Das, an UG II student of Jadavpur University.
There are others too who find a workshop on Goyna Bori fascinating. Since it’s a culinary art those who love to cook are happy to know that there’s a possibility in town that will help them to learn how to make Goyna Bori. Young and old, celebrities and commoners, are all rooting for its revival.

TASTY TREATS
‘Goyna Bori is our country’s pride. It’s not just beautiful to look at and delicious but a precious and dying art. It can be revived with government help and export. Also, youngsters need to be involved in its preservation’
— Sudipa Chatterjee, actor and anchor

‘I’m all excited to see how Goyna Bori is made. I love eating bori and like cooking too. So, it’s a unique combination of food and art. Besides, I’m keen on seeing this beautiful lost food art get revived’
— Ritam Sen, musician

DYING ARTS OF BENGAL

• Brotokotha alpona
• Sholar kaj
• Babu putul
• Galar putul
• Potochitra
• Goyna bori