How does an Indian jewellery label end up in Kendall Jenner’s wardrobe?

Social media is in a tizzy over the Misho hoops spotted on Kendall Jenner when I dial Suhani Parekh, the founder of the brand, who is currently in London. A few hours after our conversation, her Instagram page announces yet another Jenner appearance in Misho—an enviable twice-in-the-same-week feat that not many international brands, let alone Indian, can boast of. But then again, this is not the first time a fashion icon has given Misho their stamp of approval—Rihanna, Kim Kardashian West, Sonam K Ahuja, Kareena Kapoor Khan, Deepika Padukone and Claire Foy are just a few names on Misho’s roster of star-studded patrons.

Misho’s appeal, though, goes well beyond just celebrity validation. The brand is available on the (virtual and offline) shelves of hallowed retailers like Luisaviaroma, Farfetch and Selfridges; and has earned ample adulation from international press. Parekh herself was on the Forbes 30 Under 30 list in the fashion category in 2018, and won the Vogue Paris Design Award for the 15 best earrings of 2017 too.

All of this begs the questions: what allowed Misho to jump into the big leagues in just three years since its launch? How did an art history and sculpture major turn into a fashion force? And how does the brand manage to keep its top spot even as new labels enter the market everyday? Parekh gets candid and gives Vogue a behind-the-scenes look into the rise and rise of Misho.

From Misho’s launch in 2016 to now, your growth has been exponential. Talk to us about your journey.

I studied art history and sculpture at Goldsmiths, University of London. I continued making sculptures after university and started experimenting with silver. Slowly, the pieces I was making began to look better on the body than they did on a plinth. A work of art or architecture activates a space; and I started to think of the body as the space and the jewellery as a little piece of sculpture or architectural construction that gives it a new dimension. I often wore these to parties and was approached by friends to make them similar pieces too. After almost six months of this, I decided to pursue sculptural jewellery design in a more organised manner, and that’s how Misho was born.

There was no launch strategy, so to speak. I love making these pieces, I love wearing them, and it all just fell into place very organically. I continue to think of this as a great platform to be able to experiment, create new work and share it.

Did studying art give you an advantage when you launched your label? What about the importance of education vs learning on the job?

There are advantages and disadvantages no matter what you study. The job is where you really learn everything. Four years in art school helped me cultivate my creative process and design practices while giving me a strong foundation in art and design, but there was no practical industry experience. Fashion was not part of my education, so I entered the industry without any knowledge of it. Launching a fashion brand and training to be a sculptor are on two opposite sides of a continuum, and you only really learn how to find a balance when you’re on the job.

Did you have a mentor when you started out? Tell us more about your work before launching Misho.

I interned at the prestigious Gagosian Art Gallery in London when I was in university. I worked with architect Ashiesh Shah on moving back to Mumbai. His studio has an incredible creative energy and he’s been a super mentor. I worked on various design aspects during my time with him, but I was predominately making sculptures. This stint helped me develop an eye for details and good design. This is something Ashiesh achieves flawlessly in his work. I started working with him in 2013, and continued to work part-time at his studio for a part of 2016, even after I launched Misho.

What were the steps you took to ensure Misho stood out in an already populated market?

I don’t think of my pieces as just jewellery—they’re pieces of sculpture to me. Misho’s jewellery is sculpted as modern architecture for the body. The pieces are characterised by a vocabulary of clean lines, architectural forms and simplified geometric shapes with a strong emphasis on material and form. The jewellery stands on the line that separates art from design.

What allowed the brand to grow at such a fast pace?

In the end, it all comes down to good design. That has always been the most important aspect for me. If you focus on your design, the right people will find you.

How has all the celebrity spotting and press coverage (Indian and international) helped the growth of the brand? 

When it comes to celebrities, a lot depends on who the celebrity is. So when someone like Kendall Jenner is seen in your pieces, and it is perceived as a fit with her personality, it does leave an impact. Being worn by celebrities who define trends can help you grab the right attention, especially for a young brand. The same goes for all the support we’ve received from magazine stylists and editors. Many of our collaborations, such as Selfridges and Farfetch, materialised when the merchandisers discovered us through this very press coverage.

How important is Instagram to create a cult following?

It’s definitely a game-changing platform. A lot of our requests come via Instagram. While websites are about shopping and browsing, Instagram is an ideal platform to create a portfolio for your brand. Our in-house team handles the Misho page, and we use it as a moodboard for the brand. My suggestion to aspiring brands would be to focus on creating curated content, and to reach out to people you’re keen to work with through Instagram.

Suhani Parekh

Tell us more about your design process. How do you keep your pieces relevant?

I make rough sketches and then prototype in 3D. I prefer to work directly with the materials, so I often start out with this crazy sculpture, which I then strip down to make it more wearable. I feel this is what gives all Misho offerings an authentic sense of sculpture. A piece can take anywhere between three to six months to make, and all production takes place in our studio in Mumbai. Our manufacturing team has about 20-25 members.

I recently read a quote that said, “When they see you, they hear you.” I think of relevance from the stance of an artist creating a sculpture. It’s not about trends; it’s about making a larger statement about the contemporary times we live in. Which is how I view fashion as well—as a visual tool of communication and expression.

Commercial viability vs creative expression—how does one strike a balance?

There’s no formula. You just have to stay true to your brand’s identity and think about its evolution. As a boutique design studio, we are more creatively focused than commercially. I’m often asked why we don’t create more traditional jewellery, and my response is why can’t you wear these pieces with Indian wear? I wear Misho with my saris, styled with a bustier or statement belt, all the time. This was also the vision Misho was launched with—to rejuvenate design for everyday life, and allow people to step out of their comfort zone.

What would you call the highlight of your career so far?

Being on the Forbes 30 under 30 list, definitely. I’m thrilled that we are now available at Selfridges too. Another would be seeing our hoops on style icons like Rihanna, Kim Kardashian West, Kendall Jenner, Sonam K Ahuja, Deepika Padukone and Kareena Kapoor Khan.

When did you realise that you were evolving from a relatively known label to one that was recognised internationally?

Simply put, when we were featured in a print article on seven women reinventing jewellery in Vogue Paris—Misho was featured alongside some incredible brands from across the world.

Is there any advice for designers launching their own fashion labels?

There will be trial and error at every stage. Love what you’re making and just take that leap of faith. As far as design is concerned, I always ask myself if I would wear it. That’s how Misho was born, and it’s what allows me to keep the brand’s integrity intact. All the great advice we get in life usually comes from our mothers, and mine has instilled in me to be patient, stay calm and always be grateful.

This article is part of our Careers in Fashion series which will get fashion enthusiasts advice, guidance and inspiration from the biggest names in the fashion industry