The serene Kuthiramalika Palace constructed by Maharaja Swathi Thirunal in 1840s on the south eastern side of the Padmanabhaswamy Temple was the venue where he found the peace and concentration to compose music.

Come January every year, the city welcomes the cool air in the evenings with the 21-year-old Swathi Sangeetholsavam. As the early winter evening darkens and the audience sinks into the pin drop silence of the harmony and deep serenity that each musician creates, the world around also assumes a stillness that is ethereal. That is when the silver wings of the resident Barn Owls sweep overhead in eerie silence as if in tune with the music. At times, they sit still and observe in the eaves of the building above one of the 122 horse carvings that earn this space its unique name. The owls watch and wait before they take off on their nocturnal sojourns in search of food.

Black Drongo   | Photo Credit: Madhava Kurup

The sky darkens as the evening progresses with the fast flight of the ubiquitous raptor, the Black Kite, that gains speed powered by the atmosphere’s thermal eddies. It is rare to spot migrant painted storks over the golden domes of Padmanabhaswamy Temple that may be homing in on Vellayani lake or vestiges of paddy fields in the city. On many a day, the dark silhouette of the cormorant pair overhead reminds you of the water body of the temple tank where they reside and, at times, can be seen drying their wings in calm repose. The shrill calls of parakeets, drongoes and booming crow pheasant on their roosting flight along with the treepies and perky mynahs give glimpses of the small homes this space creates for urban avifauna.

The resident Barn Owl of Kuthiramalika Palace in the heart of Thiruvananthapuram   | Photo Credit: C Sushanth Kumar

The twilight cry of the magpie robins and the koels along with a shy tailorbird chirp from the ixora bush at the entrance reveals the diversity therein. One wonders if it is the call of the migrant Paradise flycatcher and warbler in their sleepy notes that has been heard occasionally. The barbet’s music can also be heard. As dusk descends, the sharp call of the night heron flying overhead falls on attentive ears while the crooning of the sleepy pigeons linger.

Living spaces

The stillness that fills the space is reflected in the red ixora hedges that line the dais. The fragrance of the tall Devil Tree at the entrance wafts along with the gentle breeze. From the cluster of trees beyond the wall with a huge mango tree and the devil tree there starts a rain of Pipistrels, the small bats — the evening vesper bats emerging from the lofts of the palace in search of insects.

This stream of dark bodies is nothing in comparison with the slow, deliberate flight of the large flying foxes that catch your eye as they leave their tree roost to sense the aroma of ripening fruits and nectar too. Many a huge tree, especially the Pipal or Banyan tree, in the city are roosting spaces for these aerial mammals. The heady smell of two captive elephants attracts many a child or visitor from abroad to stop and watch the fascinating pachyderms.

Parakeets take a break on the premises of Kuthiramalika Palace in the heart of Thiruvananthapuram   | Photo Credit: Madhava Kurup

The bright colour of the yellow trumpet flower, the mild fragrance from the Frangipani bush, the soft white and deep green of the Crape jasmine add a special touch to the much-lauded ambience of Kuthiramalika. The slim and tender sandal duo that greets you as you walk the lawn is an epitome of stillness and peace. So too the unidentified stocky tree at the edge of the ground with thick green leaves. The tell-tale marks of mongooses and the scampering squirrel pair on the mango tree with a single mango lend some evening coolness as the mercury rises with climate change.

A Treepie takes a break on the premises of Kuthiramalika Palace in the heart of Thiruvananthapuram   | Photo Credit: Madhava Kurup

As one waits for the next year when Swathi Sangeetholsavam season will arrive, one wonders about the deep spiritual link that music has with all life forms on Earth. Science has proven that seeds germinate and grow better if music is played.

Anitha Sharma is an ecologist and Coordinator of Tree Walk - Thiruvananthapuram