While Sankranti is traditionally associated with flying kites and celebrating the harvest, in villages across coastal Andhra Pradesh, it also spells murder. Blood, liquor and money flow freely as thousands of people gather at makeshift arenas, betting on their favourite ‘fighter’ -- pugnacious cocks fighting to their death with sharp knives tied to their spurs.
And Andhra’s bloodier version of the Jallikattu is no small affair.

This year, an estimated Rs 900 crore to Rs 1,200 crore were wagered by punters in three days, and more than two lakh roosters were thrown into the ring to fight it out.

One hotspot for tourists is the tiny village of Edupugallu on the outskirts of Vijayawada which attracts thousands of people, locals as well as from Telangana, Odisha and Tamil Nadu turning up in cars and two-wheelers.
Vijayawada city police commissioner Ch Dwaraka Tirumala Rao says that "attaching knives to birds is illegal” as per the high court as is gambling in all forms of sport including cockfights. But the practice continues. Though scores of people were arrested this year -- 914 cases were registered by Vijayawada city police alone -- police are usually mute spectators to what is regarded as a tradition in these parts.

Vegesna Satish Babu, a punter from Undi in West Godavari district owns six Aseel birds. "Cockfight is a tradition handed down to us by our forefathers. There is nothing wrong in it,” he says. The birds are trained for over six months before Sankranti. They are fed dry fruits and sometimes injected with steroids for extra strength. The daily training routine includes swimming, a bath with an Ayurvedic pain balm and endurance exercises. Punters also make sure that the bird does not put on extra weight as this slows them down.

The birds are usually of the magnificent Aseel breed, but illegally imported roosters from Thailand and Australia were introduced for the first time this year. Cockfights continue well after sunset, under floodlights. Card games and a numbers game (locally known as gundata) are also organised on the sidelines. At Geddanapalli village in East Godavari district, gambling arenas were `auctioned’ for Rs 32 lakh last week. The bidding went up to Rs 1 crore in Kajuluru mandal in EG district, say punters from the district.

The recent spurt in incomes due to fish farming has also translated into higher stake cockfights.“The craze for the game is increasing by the year. Increased air connectivity to Vijayawada and Rajahmundry has facilitated more visitors from neighbouring states this time," says Babu.

It is a potent cocktail where the birds don't stand a chance.