Skincare Alphabet: B is for the buzzy, anti-ageing alternative to retinol

As a beauty writer, I’m often asked about the product I’d take to a desert island if I really had to choose just one, and my answer every single time is retinol. The super ingredient keeps acne at bay and fights fine lines, all while making skin softer and bouncier. But truth is, it can get a little too overzealous sometimes. Which is why I was excited to hear about bakuchiol, a natural skincare ingredient that mimics the characteristics of its stronger sister. In fact, a large number of people seem to be eager about this—according to Pinterest, the search for bakuchiol increased by +275 per cent in 2018. Scroll ahead for everything you need to know about adding it to your beauty routine.

What exactly is bakuchiol, and how does it compare to retinol?

Bakuchiol is a herb commonly used in our Indian Ayurvedic practices, as well as in Chinese medicine. It is used to calm, heal and soothe the skin because it has powerful antioxidant and anti-bacterial properties. The herb comes from the Babchi plant, commonly grown in South India and known for its soft purple flowers (which is why some bakuchiol products carry the same violet hue).

Retinol (a Vitamin A derivative part of the retinoid family) is one of the hardest working ingredients out there—the true old guard of anti-ageing and acne-fighting skincare. It targets fine lines, fights wrinkles and evens skin tone by prompting surface skin cells to quickly turn over and die. This way, they make way for new cell growth underneath, therefore targeting acne as well. Retinol also hampers the breakdown of collagen, and thickens the layer of the skin where wrinkles start to appear. However, for all its benefits, retinol can be a scary ingredient to use for some. Studies show that some side effects of retinol can include burning, scaling and dermatitis, especially when the user does not start with lower concentrations (or attempts to use a retinol with a strong acid ingredient.)

Enter, bakuchiol. For those with sensitive skin, or the conscious consumers who prefer to eschew synthetic ingredients and shop clean, this herb is a super-ingredient showcasing similar characteristics to the OG retinol, that carries significantly lesser side effects. It’s completely different molecularly (bakuchiol is not a Vitamin A derivative), but they both have similar effects on the skin.

According to a study in The British Journal of Dermatology, bakuchiol is able to fight fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone, and even work against the skin’s photoageing process, which is premature ageing of skin due to exposure to UV rays. (If you’re reading this, put some sunscreen on now!) Plus, it doesn’t have the sensitising effects that retinol does—no flaking or peeling here. Bakuchiol works by increasing cell turnover (just like retinol), which stimulates collagen production and improves photo skin laxity and bounce. It has a positive effect on collagen and elastin too. Moreover, it has also been proven to suppress the effects of melanin-producing cells, resulting in a reduction of pigmentation and dark spots.

How can one add bakuchiol to their skincare routine?

Some dermatologists are of the opinion that bakuchiol is the perfect starter product for those looking to eventually add retinol to their regimen. Skin tends to get used to retinol, and the only way through is up—you have to keep amplifying the strength for the ingredient to keep working. Therefore, starting with bakuchiol enables the skin to get acclimated to a similar ingredient. For those with a complicated skincare routine that includes multiple acids or prescription topicals, bakuchiol can be a safer, easier approach. While some professionals say that bakuchiol is safe for pregnant and breastfeeding women, there isn’t enough research to back this up yet. Since retinol is a definite no-no for those delicate months, research on the safety and efficacy of bakuchiol is still underway.

Bakuchiol is now available in different formulations, but serums seem to be the most common way to imbibe its benefits. In the Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum, the small size of the molecules means that the ingredients can penetrate deeper. The clean serum leaves skin visibly taut and brightened. Ready to take a step up? The Lancer Advanced Retinol Treatment has a blend of retinol and bakuchiol to deliver a one-two punch. And if you already have a serum routine down pat (or can’t bring yourself to add an extra step to your skincare,) use a cleanser like Bioderma Sebium Global Intensive Purifying Care, which has bakuchiol in it to balance the fatty acids in the skin. On the hydrating spectrum of things, the Ole Henriksen Goodnight Glow Retin-ALT Sleeping Creme pairs the herb with AHAs to combat pigmentation and fine lines and the Omorovicza Miracle Facial Oil, which has bakuchiol suspended in rosehip and almond oil, helps moisturise the skin.

Scroll ahead for our edit of the best bakuchiol-powered skincare products you should add to your vanity in 2019.

Also read:

The wellness trends that will be huge in 2019 according to Pinterest

Skincare alphabet: A is for the all-important acid you need in your routine

Skincare 101: How to choose the right night cream for your skin type