I curse myself the moment I deboard at the Rajiv Chowk Metro station. Coming here on New Year’s Day is almost never a good idea, but today looks particularly bad. Rajiv Chowk, New Delhi’s inescapable vortex of chaos, is teeming with more people than usual.
At the gate I exit from, entry has been temporarily suspended. A Central Industrial Security Force guard is holding back a large, argumentative group of people. “Andar saans nahi ayegi. Wait karo (You won’t be able to breathe in there. You must wait here),” he tells the group, before making an exception ...
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