A Classic and Comforting Pork Chop Recipe, Refined
In this recipe from San Francisco’s Che Fico, pork chops sear on the stovetop as the accompanying candied apples roast in the oven. A quick-cooking green-bean almondine balances the plate perfectly
The Chef: David Nayfeld
His Restaurants: Che Fico and Theorita in San Francisco
What he’s known for: Comforting regional-Italian and American classics. Obsessing over details that make simple cooking remarkable.
THINK DINER FOOD, dignified with the best ingredients and a chef’s meticulous eye. That’s what was on offer at San Francisco’s Theorita until it served its last meal last weekend. Cooking and sourcing at that level proved unsustainable for the dinette-style operation, so chef David Nayfeld and his partners decided to re-conceive the space. “It’s unfortunate,” said Mr. Nayfeld. “But you can’t be sentimental about things like this.”
Eating this dish, it’s hard not to be. Mr. Nayfeld’s third Slow Food Fast recipe, the pork chop served with candied apples and a buttery green-bean almondine, is straight out of the Theorita playbook.
To get a good sear on the pork chop without sacrificing a juicy interior, start it in a ripping hot pan, then lower the heat to cook it through. Meanwhile, roast the apples until their flesh goes all velvety soft, and the butter, honey, sugar and salt coating them cooks down into a scrumptious caramel. “It’s classic Americana,” said Mr. Nayfeld, “and super tasty.”
SERVES: 4 TIME: 35 minutes
Kosher salt
4 tablespoons honey
8 tablespoons butter
¼ cup sugar
Juice of 1½ lemons
4 apples, halved and cored, stems attached
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 large bone-in pork chops
3 sprigs rosemary
3 cloves garlic
2 bay leaves
1 pound green beans, trimmed
1 medium shallot, minced
⅓ cup chopped or slivered almonds
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Set a medium pot filled with salted water over high heat. Distribute honey, 4 tablespoons butter, half the sugar and half the lemon juice over cut sides of apples. Arrange apples, cut-side down, in a small baking dish so they fit snugly in a single layer. Sprinkle remaining sugar over apples and season with a pinch of salt. Bake, basting with pan juices at least twice, until fork-tender, 25 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, set a large sauté pan over high heat and swirl in oil. Season pork chops generously with salt, and lay into pan. Cook until well seared on one side, about 4 minutes. Smash two garlic cloves with the side of a knife. Flip pork chops and add 3 tablespoons butter, rosemary, smashed garlic and bay leaves to pan. Lower heat to medium and cook, basting meat with pan juices, until seared on reverse side and just cooked through, about 7 minutes more. Set pork chops aside and wipe pan clean.
3. Add green beans to boiling water and blanch until bright green, about 1 minute. Strain and set aside. Set the large sauté pan over medium heat and add remaining butter to pan. Mince remaining garlic and add it to pan along with minced shallot. Cook until shallot is translucent, about 1 minute. Add almonds and cook until lightly browned, 1-2 minutes. Toss in blanched beans and cook until heated through, 1-2 minutes. Season beans with remaining lemon juice and salt. Serve pork chops with roasted apples and green beans.