While art gets ready to take over Fort Kochi, restaurants, cafes and stores are bustling with plans. Having watched the town transform over the years, from a residential abode to what is now the “Biennale City”, here are some recommendations for visitors.
Eat
Drawing Room: Sharath Pulimood’s Instagram-friendly restaurant within the premises of The Cochin Club, will soon see grills to accompany the now famous Pal Kappa and Naadan Curry, and the live music in the evenings (094009 03476). Meanwhile, don’t miss the wood-fired pizzas at the cafe at David Hall, also an official KMB venue (0484 3011711).
Francis: This unassuming little restaurant on Quiros Street is where you go to eat like a local. Get there early for fiery fish head and coconut curry, pork vindaloo, dry prawn chutney and dosas. A reading room is coming up upstairs, and art lines the walls. Behind the Post Office.
Loving Earth: Kiwi yoga expert Bree Mcilroy is behind the city’s first vegan eatery, where nuts, seeds, soya, and coconut cream go to create refreshing desserts. Ask for the chia and sunflower seeds energy balls and the cheesecake.
Ishka Capers: Cafe Verandah by Passage Malabar at Aspinwall House will have tastings of Ishka Farm’s produce: as caper cream cheese, caper butter, caper and moringa breads and moringa shots. And at Gallery OED Elements in Mattancherry, a showcase of curated pottery, lampshades and home accessories, as well as Ishka Farms’ capers.
Shop
Biennale Edit: Town House, another KMB venue, will house Tracy Pottamkulam’s three-month pop-up of travel-friendly clothing and accessories. Expect biodegradable fabrics, Scandinavian-style shoes, indie labels like Crow, Soham Dave and Flame (by Italian designer Martino Caramia), and more menswear from Lecoanet Hemant.
Pepper House: The Design Store at the KMB venue has about 25 new labels this month and Tinky Mathew is lining up dialogues between fashion designers and clients. Elsewhere, at Viakerala, headed by Theresa Joseph George, a ceramic collection of their popular Malayalam alphabets will make for great souvenirs. On Bazaar Road, OED Gallery has loaned its space to 20 Indian designers. Aaeshaane by Chennai designer Neesha Amrish, in collaboration with The Hashtag# Collective will have a triptych installation of their handcrafted textiles focussing on transgender women and a fashion show in the opening week.
Cult Modern: Besides fashion labels like Abraham & Thakore, Eka, Payal Khandwala, Raw Mango and others, Archana Nandal is introducing chic evening wear from De Castro Moda, Perona and Toile Indienne at this month-old design-forward store on Napier Street. A great stop for the many KMB parties ahead. @shopcultmodern
Stay
Mandalay House: In the heart of Jew Town in Mattancherry, is Mandalay House, a new boutique hotel. A design store for antiques and art, and a restaurant of modern Kerala food will be coming up, says owner Pallavi Kainady.
Sing
Kerala designer Joe Ikareth and his French wife Murielle Ikareth, a movement therapist based in Kottayam, will host a series of pop-ups of French singers in the streets of Fort Kochi.
The writer is creative director of Kashi Art Gallery. She has curated the Red Crown-Green Parrot project, created by Meydad Eliyahu and Thoufeek Zakriya. It comprises a series of paintings and calligraphic wall works in Malayalam, English and Hebrew. The project will create a walking route through Jew Town, from December 12 to March 30.