OFF THE VINE: Screw caps on wine bottles fuel debate

The debate over the use of screw caps on wine bottles continues to stir emotions among wine lovers. While some see them as rather novel, others have a strong aversion to their use. Since the early '60s screw caps have gained a rather solid footing in the wine industry and today can be found on bottles from around the world. In case you were wondering, screw caps are metal caps that screw onto threads on the neck of a wine bottle. A layer of plastic or other soft material is used as a wad to make a seal with the mouth of the bottle. For years now, this form of closure has steadily gone toe to toe as an alternative to traditional cork for sealing bottles of wine. But is this really what wine lovers want? I think you could argue the issue either way.

So what are the facts? According to experts, screw caps prevent the wine from oxidation and cork taint, are easier to open and are more cost-effective. Cork, on the other hand, is traditional, viewed by many as higher-end and has well-known characteristics established through centuries of experience. For traditionalists like myself, the interaction between man and cork is eternal. A well-designed corkscrew and a little elbow grease versus the defiant cork wedged within its glass vessel. It makes for a thrilling rivalry, don’t you think? And let’s not forget that euphoric sensation we all experience once the cork is successfully dislodged from the bottle.

A while back I spoke with Michael Meagher, East Coast manager and wine educator of Treasury Wine Estates in California, to weigh in here with his opinion. As he explained, “Many wine lovers will not abandon their favorite wines in spite of the screw cap. However, it may be of some concern to high-end restaurants and retailers who sell expensive bottles of wine. The screw cap could raise some eyebrows among connoisseurs who view it as a cheap alternative to cork stoppers.”

Meagher also points out that on the production end the cost to manufacture a screw cap is far less than traditional cork. “That may in the long run benefit consumers,” he said. I asked him if the move toward screw caps was universal. “Yes, I believe the movement is afoot and over time wineries the world over may be making the switch Perhaps a few holdouts would be places like Bordeaux and Burgundy in France, home to some of the most coveted wines in the world," Meagher said.

Though consumer sentiment will continue to play a big part in determining the future of screw caps, it remains to be seen if and when staunch traditionalists will concede and make the change. For many producers, especially those with a fiercely loyal following, the pressure to convert may not even be an issue.

As Meagher points out, “It’s really about preserving and guaranteeing the quality of the wine. What's at stake here is the winery's reputation in the marketplace. That’s what will ultimately be the deciding factor.”

Until then, it appears cork will continue to be the standard bearer of wine enclosures. However, if that should change, many wine lovers who prefer cork will surely feel screwed. Cheers!

Wine of the Week: Prophecy, 2015 Red Blend, California. Deeply colored and nicely oaked with ripe berry and cherry notes along with subtle tannins. Well-balanced with good texture and a long, smooth, silky finish. A great everyday red. $14