When NS Krishnamoorthi launched Prems Graama Bhojanam in Adyar in 2014, he had no clue which age group would patronise his restaurant, which had a mess-like ambience. He was totally surprised when a lot of young people started thronging it.
The restaurant has now launched a new branch, but in a bigger format, catering to a different segment in a plush ambience. Krishnamoorthi’s experience and his numerous experiments are reflected in every dish listed in the menu. His corporate career, which lasted 32 years, took him to the remotest villages in Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh, and his tryst with millets-based food began then. “I grew up in Hosur. My family grew millets and I grew up eating them. I was also fascinated by the charm of the rural style of cooking, which is simple and extraordinarily tasty, and started to learn the cooking methods of every dish I came across,” says Krishnamoorthi.
We started our meal with a warm bowl of lentil soup sprinkled with veppam poo fried in ghee. Ponnankanni keera vada (made using black-eyed beans) and cutlet (millet flour, sweet potato and vegetable mix) followed. Next came sweet potato crispies which I just couldn’t stop nibbling. The Apollo paneer swept me off my feet. Apollo fish, usually made with murrel, is a popular cocktail snack usually served in bars and pubs in Hyderabad, and here, the fish was replaced with paneer. The soft squares are first deep-fried in bran oil, then sautéed in ginger, garlic, curry leaves and chilli powder, and then a spice mix is sprinkled over it. It is then served with slit and sautéed green chillies and a dash of lemon juice. The zest and flavour of it will make you lick the plate clean.
For the main course, I opted for the varagu vegetable biryani, Thumkur thatte idli and red rice dosa. The biryani was cooked to perfection; the flavour, aroma and texture just right. Idli joined hands with a tangy and spicy kaara kulambu, and it was a perfect partnership. The soft red rice dosa went equally well with peanut chutney.
The restaurant’s mission is to serve healthy food in a village style, without using artificial colours, additives, sugar or white rice. Besides millets and certain varieties of heritage rice, the focus is also on seasonal vegetables.
“My biggest challenge was introducing unfamiliar ingredients in a familiar menu. For example, I had to develop chapati with ragi and kuzhi paniyaram with little millet,” he explains. In the new branch, they have introduced soups and starters, and some new additions in its menu. Vegan and gluten-free meals are available on demand.
I spend a good 10 minutes deciding on dessert, even though there are just three options. I give in to temptation and order one serving each of red rice halwa (red rice flour cooked with jaggery) and Asoka halwa (moong dal and jaggery) and natural kulfi (made of milk, palm sugar and dry fruits). The red rice halwa wins hands down.
Prems Graama Bhojanam is at 112-113, AL Block 4th Avenue, Shanti Colony, Anna Nagar East, 4865 6595
Hit: Apollo Paneer, Vegetable biriyani and Red rice halwa.
Miss: Red rice dosa, Asoka halwa
Cost for two: Rs 600