YEAR’S BEST GMT WATCHES

Hiren Kumar Bose picks eight GMT watches launched this year—from Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II to Gucci Eryx GMT

GRAND SEIKO Blue Ceramic Hi-beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition

Launched on the occasion of the 20th anniversary of the Grand Seiko 9S Calibre, the 40mm watch’s inner case and the bracelet’s outer links are crafted from very lightweight, high-intensity titanium, the outer case and the centre links of the bracelet are made of the new Grand Seiko blue zirconia ceramic, an extremely hard material. The hi-beat movement has been adjusted to the Grand Seiko “Special” standard and upholds a precise rate of +4 to -2 seconds per day. The blue dial is adorned with a new pattern that lends extraordinary depth to the face. Enthusiasts will also love the expertly-finished dial and the almost paper-like texture of the dial.

ROLEX Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

The 40mm watch allows travellers to read the time in two different time zones simultaneously. With a traditional hour, minute and seconds display via hands; a 24-hour hand; and a bidirectional rotatable bezel with a 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert, it is possible to read the time in two time zones at once: either the local time and a reference time, or the local time and another time zone as desired. The date, shown at 3 o’clock, is synchronized with the local time display. Available in Oystersteel: it combines an Oyster case and a five-link Jubilee bracelet with a bidirectionally rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated two-colour Cerachrom insert in red and blue ceramic.

PATEK PHILIPPE Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

The 42mm watch (Reference 5524) with second-time zone and date in the local time zone in a rose gold version with a brown dial. The inspiration of aviation is clearly evident in the outstanding legibility of the spacious dial with its applied rose gold numerals and broad baton-shaped hands. This model is powered by Calibre 324 S C FUS, which assures that the user can readily change the displayed time zone with its day/night indicator. The Calatrava Pilot Travel time is now available for the first time in a ladies’ version as Reference 7234R-001.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph GMT

Celebrating Carrera’s 55th birthday the watch includes a chronograph with a GMT display that’s adjusted via the crown and indicated by a red hand its skeletonised dial reveals new manufacture Calibre Heuer 02. The chronograph minutes and hours are at 3 and 9 o’clock, with the permanent small second at 6 o’clock and the date window at 4:30, completed by the GMT function. It is the first time that TAG Heuer has added this complication to its prestigious manufacture movement. The second time zone, an ultra-practical feature that can be adjusted with the crown, is read using the lacquered red hand and the black and blue ceramic bezel, which has a 24-hour GMT scale. To ensure optimum legibility, the GMT hand has been ingeniously mounted in a secondary position — between the hour and minute hands — enabling it to pass over the indexes and skim the GMT scale. The manufacture movement, visible through the skeleton dial, is housed inside a solid 45 mm steel case, water-resistant to 100 m.

BREITLING Navitimer 8 B35 Automatic Unitime

The central part remains plain while the periphery of the dial on this 43mm steel cased watch receives the traditional 24H and city rings. Nice, clean and powered by an in-house movement, the Calibre B35 with two barrels for a 70-hour power reserve (visible through the sapphire caseback). This self-winding watch’s world-time display works with the aid of an independent hour-hand that can be reset via the crown. The ticking heart of this COSC-certified chronometer is Breitling’s manufacture Calibre B35, which offers more than 70 hours of autonomous running.

ORIS Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer

This 44.7mm pilot’s watch from Oris is more of an advanced dual-time watch, though it does go a step further than a standard dual-time or GMT in terms of convenience. It displays the wearer’s home time in the three o’clock subdial and the local hours and minutes on the main dial. When you twist the watch’s bezel, it moves the hour hand on the main dial, meaning that when travelling you don’t need to fiddle with the crown when you change time zones.

NOMOS Zürich World Time

The 40mm watch doesn’t display the hour for all 24 timezones individually. Instead, the city name at the 12 o’clock corresponds to the time shown on the main dial, and when the pusher at two o’clock is depressed the ring advances to the next city, while the hour hand advances one hour in synchrony.

GUCCI Eryx GMT

Named after a species of snake, the 40mm watch features striking guilloche dial stamped with geometric patterns along with the signature serpent second-time-zone hand. Fitted to alligator skin “Bund” style cuff straps, it is powered by the ETA 2892, and available within either yellow gold plate or steel. Two models offer a sophisticatedly designed GMT display with a serpentine hand to show the time in a second zone.