said to have originated in the royal kitchens of the Maratha Empire, pathir pheni was supposedly a favourite of the great Chhatrapati Shivaji. Today, this heritage dish can mostly be found in Karnataka under the name ‘chiroti’, a crusty disk-like sweet.

Ashwini Nachappa and Datta Karumbaiah

Chennai:

It is usually served with warm badam milk that has to be poured on top to soften it. Hence, locals believe that a successful relationship or marriage is when the two individuals, each with their unique characteristics, blend together beautifully like pheni in almond milk.

The first person who comes to my mind when I think of this dish is former athlete and an Indian film actress Ashwini Nachappa, who hails from Coorg. A dear friend of mine, her marriage with coffee planter and timber merchant Datta Karumbaiah incidentally revolves around chiroti! She told me that the first time they met was at a dinner.

When it was time for dessert, both of them reached out for the last helping of the pheni; as their hands met and eyes locked, a deep bond was formed. Love took over and the duo set off on a beautiful lifelong journey.

Her mother was a great human being and cook and always welcomed guests into their home with many new dishes to taste. Many a time I watched aunty cook food in the dream kitchen of the Ashwini and Dutta’s well-constructed home. Since pathir pheni and rasu happened to be the family’s favourite, the entire house would come alive with the smell of this dish being made.

However, this heritage dish is fast-disappearing, which often leaves me with the thought, ‘Why does everything that tastes so good, have to be forgotten?’ Hopefully, today’s column and recipe will inspire you to whip up chiroti with some delicious badam milk for your loved ones on Deepavali this year.

Ingredients

All-purpose flour: 1/2 cup

Fine sooji

semolina (chiroti rava): 1/2 cup

Salt: a pinch

Ghee: ½ cup

Rice flour: 1/4 cup

Powdered sugar: 1/2 cup

Ground cardamom: 1 tbsp

Ground cloves: a pinch

Almonds: 1/2 cup

Fresh milk: 1 litre

Saffron: a pinch

Sugar: 1/4 cup

Refined oil: 1/2 cup

Pistas, cashew nuts, raisins: 1/4 cup, diced

Method

Combine the sugar, ground cardamom and clove in a small bowl and set aside until ready to use.
Mix flour, semolina, half of the ghee and salt in a wide bowl. Combine the ingredients in such a way that the mixture resembles crumbles. Slowly, add water and knead it into a smooth dough. Cover and set aside for at least one hour.
When ready to prepare chirotis / phenis, combine the remaining ghee and rice flour in a bowl and keep aside.
Divide the dough into five equal portions.
Roll each into a thin circle.
Smear the ghee-rice flour mixture on top of the rolled out circle.
Place another rolled out circle on top of the first circle.
Repeat this rolling, smearing with ghee-rice flour mixture and layering, with the remaining dough balls.
Apply the ghee mixture on the top-most circle.
Starting from one end, roll the layered circles like a carpet into a tight log.
Fold the ends in securely.
Cut the log into 1-inch pieces.
Roll each piece again into a circle and using the palm of one hand, press lightly with your other hand.
Place a metal kadai on the stove. Heat oil for deep-frying.
When oil is hot, fry each circle on low flame until they’re cooked.
Ensure the chirotis do not burn or change too much colour.
Drain on paper towels.
Place on a plate and sprinkle nuts on top of each chiroti / pathir pheni.

Almond milk

Soak the almonds in warm water for 30 minutes.
Then, peel and grind them into a smooth paste, adding some milk while grinding.
Keep aside.
Soak the saffron in 2-3 tbsp of hot milk.
In a thick-bottomed saucepan, add all the milk.
Bring the milk to a gentle boil, add the almond paste and cook on low heat for 10 minutes, stirring continuously.
Add the saffron to the milk
Add the sugar and stir. Cook for another 10 minutes.
Keep stirring to avoid burning. Add ground cardamom just before removing from the flame.
To serve, sprinkle powdered sugar on each chiroti. Pour the warm almond milk on each chiroti and let it soak for 15-20 minutes before eating.

Pathir pheni / chirotis in almond rasu (milk)

Prep time: 50 minutes

Cooking time: 55 minutes

Serves: 5-6 pax

Calories per chiroti: 340 cal

Kitchen Tip

Place a small steel katori in the saucepan while cooking milk to avoid it from spilling over

— Chef Ramaa Shanker is the author of Festive Offerings to the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes