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Culture & Living

What to do in the city during Paris Fashion Week

As the final leg of fashion week moves to the French capital, Vogue Paris opens up the city’s address book revealing the best places to dine, wine, play and stay

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Sleep the night away in:

The newcomer: Hôtel de Berri

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Fittingly located in Paris’ eighth arrondissement, Elsa Schiaparelli’s favourite quarter, this newly opened hotel occupying an ex-private mansion, even has a restaurant named after the couturier. A mix of classic antiques and Louvre-worthy reproductions provide the spectacular decor, while a 3,000 square meters wild private garden fulfils dreams of a never-ending summer. 
Address: 18-22 rue de Berri, 75008 Paris; Tel: +33 (0)1 76 53 77 70; Marriott.com

The home away from home: Le Pigalle

Designed by the architects at Festen, the firm behind the revamped Hotel des Roches Rouges in Saint-Raphaël, Le Pigalle is a Paris staple. Residing on rue Frochot, surrounded by edgy, cosmopolitan food and bar hot spots, its colourful demeanour chimes perfectly with the lively neighbourhood. Locals and visitors alike flock to the hotel restaurant for the expertly crafted dishes, but undoubtedly the main attraction is the opulent rooms where white decor and opulent marble, velvet and leather are married with second-hand furniture, books and record collections to create a vintage ambiance worthy of a true Parisian apartment.
Address: 9 rue Frochot, 75009 Paris; Tel: +33 (0)1 48 78 37 14; Lepigalle.paris

The cult classic: The Ritz Paris

After the Ritz Paris quietly reopened its doors on June 6, 2016 following four years of renovation, the capital’s inhabitants and travellers resumed normal service as if the grande dame hotel had never closed. The biggest addition was the Bar Vendôme in the hotel’s inner courtyard, which, with its spectacular glass canopy is transformed into a fantastic winter garden as summer fades. The reduced number of bedrooms allow for more space and luxury, while chef Nicolas Sale continues to provide the same high-quality food his predecessor Michel Roth did at the famous L’Espadon restaurant. Coco Chanel’s home for just under 40 years, the Ritz now holds a Chanel spa, the first of its kind, with five luxury cabins (and five bespoke massage oils) offering a multi-sensory experience. Inside a large library with gold-plated antique furniture and cushioned couches, Marcel Proust’s portrait overlooks the tea salon which bears his name, where afternoon tea à la Française comes with madeleines and pastries.
Address: 15 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris; Tel: +33 (0)1 43 16 30 30; Ritzparis.com

Grab a bite to eat at:

An organic lunch spot: Maison Plisson 2

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Image: Romain Ricard

Three years after opening its first location in Paris on Boulevard Beaumarchais, Maison Plisson is back for seconds. Located at place du Marché Saint-Honoré, the same concept applies—a space of more than 1,200 square meters where customers can find an array of fresh, organic fruit and vegetables, a grocery store, a boulangerie, a seafood counter and a section to buy household items and kitchenware. And let’s not forget the on-site restaurant, which serves up the best of seasonal cuisine, including gazpacho with strawberries and tomatoes, fresh burrata, fresh salads and homemade pastries—all of it available seven days a week.
Address: 35 place du Marché Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris; Lamaisonplisson.com

The restaurant in a fruit and vegetable market: Les Enfants du Marché

The brainchild of Michael Grosman and Laurent Perles, this buzzy new comptoir in the Marché des Enfants Rouges serves up flavour-packed dishes created by Japanese chef Masahide Ikuta using ultra-fresh seasonal produce—think green Provençal asparagus with squid; pickled egg yolk with parmesan cream; haute couture sea urchins; and monkfish with “burned” cauliflower—all washed down with a selection of natural wines.
Address: 39 rue de Bretagne 75003 Paris; Tel: +33 (0)140 24 01 43; Lesenfantsdumarche.fr

The restaurant to see and be seen in: Girafe

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Image: Adrien Dirand

Nestled inside Paris’ Cité de l’Architecture, Girafe is a stomping ground for seafood aficionados—and le beau monde. Owned by Gilles Malafosse and Laurent Gourcuff, of Monsieur Bleu and Loulou fame, the fashionable eatery boasts 1930s French-style decor by Joseph Dirand—with cream benches, a marbled bar, tropical plants and original pilasters—and a sumptuous fish and seafood menu created by head chef Benoît Dargère. Opt for a table on the terrace for fabulous views of the Eiffel Tower.
Address: 1 place du Trocadéro, 75016 Paris; Tel: +33 (0)1 40 62 70 61; Girafeparis.com

A throwback to 1920s Paris: Bouillon Julien

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From gingham napkins and vintage posters to the kind of simple cuisine that provokes Proustian childhood reveries in French natives, the bistro revival is in full swing in Paris and Bouillon Julien is at its apex. Enjoy oh-so satisfying dishes, such as leek vinaigrette with roasted hazelnuts, fish and chips, and tapioca and shrimp in the restaurant’s impeccable art nouveau interiors with its Louis Majorelle Cuban mahogany bar, floral solarium, ceiling trims and opulent velvet booths. And the prices are just as tempting as the food.
Address: 16 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010 Paris; Tel: +33 (0)1 47 70 12 06; Bouillon-julien.com

The best of haute cuisine: Apicius

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Replacing Jean-Pierre Vigato in the kitchen of this epicurean Parisian restaurant, Mathieu Pacaud is serving up equally sophisticated and simple classics—from fresh pea and curried emulsion gazpacho and golden caviar and aniseed fennel langoustines to wild turbot and sweetbreads. Architect François-Joseph Graf has given the interior decor a makeover too, with a playful trompe-l’oeil twist, black and white tiles that are really a soft, fitted carpet, and wood panelling which is actually paint, all finished with fun animal prints. The icing on the cake is a fabulous terrace, nuzzled in the verdant gardens of the hotel, which make you forget you’re in a metropolis.
Address: 20 rue d’Artois, 75008 Paris; Tel: +33 (0)1 43 80 19 66; Restaurant-apicius.com

Dissect shows over drinks at:

The typically Parisian bar: Déviant

The quintessential place to start a night of partying in the City of Lights, Déviant is also a convivial setting for whiling away an evening in its standing-only bar. The windowless space is centred around an Arabescato marble counter surrounded by flat mirrors, on which glasses filled with natural wines and small tapas dishes circulate.
Address: 39 rue des Petites Écuries, 75010 Paris; Tel: +33 (0)1 48 24 66 79; Vivantparis.com/deviant

A rooftop bar with a view: Hôtel National des Arts et Métiers

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Despite opening only a few months ago, the Hôtel National des Arts et Métiers is already a favourite with Parisians and visitors, not least for its roof terrace, where you can enjoy exquisite cocktails and enjoy sweeping views over the Marais rooftops. Just two steps from the Montorgueil district, the hotel offers 66 rooms and suites featuring Raphael Navot’s pared-back designs.

Address: 243 rue Saint-Martin, 75003 Paris; Tel: +33 (0)1 80 97 22 80; Hotelnational.paris

A club to get down in: L’Hôtel Bourbon

A 1970s throwback, with walnut burl tables inspired by Willy Rizzo, Gianemilio Piero and Anna Monti appliqués, and a psychedelic carpet created by Ines Longevial and Chloé Desvenin, L’Hôtel Bourbon oozes all the dance party vibes you could hope for. An affectionately self-proclaimed hotel for insomniacs, with all the services and the splendour of a palace, except for one small detail—there are no beds—you will dance until your feet fall off, drink like a fish and flirt like your life depends on it, but sleep? Not going to happen.
Address: 39 rue des Petites Écuries 75010 Paris

Have a cultural rendezvous at:

The Picasso. Blue and Rose exhibition at the Musée d’Orsay

For the first time, Picasso’s blue and pink periods are the exclusive subject of an exhibition. Coinciding with the artist’s formative years (between 1900 and 1906), the periods saw the young prodigy cultivating his artistic identity against the backdrop of France’s effervescent capital. Don’t miss the opportunity to see the works which are being shown in France for the first time. The show, which has only just opened, is on until January 6, 2019.
Address: 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 75007 Paris; Musee-orsay.fr

The Yves Saint Laurent: Dreams of the Orienexhibition at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent

The first-ever temporary exhibition at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Paris, this show brings together the designer’s stunning collection of haute-couture, Japanese-inspired dresses, as well as the traditional trinkets that inspired his designs. Opening on October 2, 2018, the exhibition runs until January 27, 2018.
Address: 5 avenue Marceau, 75116 Paris; Museeyslparis.com

Now Playing: Aditi Rao Hydari’s Behind the Scenes Cover Shoot for the May 2018 issue

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