Be it on the ramp or the silver screen, the applique art of Pipli has always mesmerized its onlookers for its vibrance. But, how well do we know the art that has its roots in a village, barely 40-minutes drive from Bhubaneswar? Not many would know that during Dola Yatra, the Radha and Krishna idols are carried on a richly-decorated Vimana (a specially-designed temple-like palanquin). The Vimana is covered by a specially designed applique canopy called Dola Mandani. Again, the applique craft forms an integral part of Chaiti Ghoda Nacha, one of the major folk dance forms of Odisha. Well, you can find all such details about the art and its craftsmen in the book, 'Celebrating Colours', by writer Raja Parija. His book was released in the city on Friday in the presence of Minister of Handlooms, Textiles and Handicrafts, Snehangiri Chruria.
After two years of research, Raja has penned down a gripping account on applique. As you flip through the pages of this coffee-table book, well-captured photographs of the art and the tradition woven around it give you enough reasons to keep it for leisure readings on an evening free.
It aren't the phrases or information embedded in the book's matrix important alone. The book hits your emotional side and you are overloaded with sensations of joy, pride and nostalgia. This happens as the account and the images uphold the culture of Odisha and the Jagannath cult. The writer presents an account as intricate as the art itself, but with simple use of language. He strikes a balance between his dealing with the art's past and its present. On one hand, the readers are apprised of its historical significance. And, he also mentions about its globalisation in modern times. "The applique garden umbrella, one of the most popular items of Pipli, finds its way to most of the sea-beaches and beach-resorts all over the world. Similarly, lampsheds, another popular decorative item, in different colour, shape and size adorn many international airports and hotels," he writes. Similarly, the book also explores how the art is now being adopted for designing modern outfits.
The writer's in-depth research of the subject matter becomes evident from his account of the various stitching styles used for applique work. He mentions about the traditional hand-stitching styles, including Bakhia (stem stitch); Taropa (hem stitch); Guntha (run stitch); Khanja (tag stitch); Button-hole stitch; Ganthi and Kitikitia.
But, how did the writer develop an inclination towards the art? "My interest in handicrafts and handlooms began in 2013, when I was given additional charge of Member Secretary, State Institute of Development of Arts and Crafts (SIDAC). I got the opportunity for close interaction with crafstmen and weavers of the State," he says. The writer hopes that his book will help readers relate to the craft culture and heritage of the State.