The name Shrujan is synonymous with craft to all those familiar with the rich world of textiles of Gujarat. A craft-revival organisation, Shrujan, has been working with craftswomen in Kutch for several decades. As different kinds of embroideries got a new lease of life, the artistes practising it also found a way of sustaining themselves through income generation. Kutch-based Ami Shroff, Managing Trustee of Shrujan, who took over the baton from her mother Late Chandaben Shroff, talks about the road ahead.
Edited excerpts from the email interview.
What are the highlights of the upcoming exhibition in Bengaluru?
The lounge wear dresses and bright cotton saris for younger women. New contemporary compositions of birds and flowers patterns will also be showcased. We also have kurtas in Chanderi and khadi. Embroidery focus this time will be on Sodha Pakko.
What kind of embroideries and communities is Shrujan involved with currently? Tell us about your engagement with soof embroidery.
Shrujan Trust currently works with more than 3500 craftswomen from 12 different communities across Kutch and nearby Banaskantha region. The communities we work with include: Ahir, Meghwaad Gurjar, Rabaari, Mochi, Sodha, Jadeja, Meghwaad Maaru, Jat, Mutva, Halepotra, Meghwaad Maarwaada and Raau Node. Soof is one of our most widely practised embroidery craft across the variety of garments that we create. The form of embroidery is created by the careful counting of warp and weft threads, without drawing any pattern on the fabric itself. As no paper patterns or reference books are used, the craftswomen need great skill and imagination to guide the embroidery across the garment.
How has Shrujan evolved over the years?
Shrujan’s genesis is a shining example of how adversity can be turned into an opportunity when one sets the right intent. My mother, Late Chandaben Shroff, had set her intent to empower the women she saw amongst her in the Kutch region in 1969. After a devastating drought that wreaked havoc on Kutch, she visited Dhanelti village in Kutch to help run a free kitchen. However, the self-respecting village women refused to accept charity. At this time, she noticed that the local hand embroidery worn by the women folk of the area was exquisite and unique and in that she saw a viable way for these women to not only earn a dignified living but also an opportunity to bring this unique craft form to a wider audience.
The unique circumstances of women folk who had never stepped out of their homes to earn a living were kept in mind while offering them any embroidery work. My mother found a way to empower these kaarigars without interrupting their way of life. Having started with a handful of women 50 years ago, Shrujan’s family now comprises of 3,000 women. The women place their implicit trust in Shrujan to value their work and their effort and we at our end ensure that each of these craftswomen is paid irrespective of whether the piece they have created is sold or not. For us at Shrujan Trust, curating this treasure of embroidery craft, is not just about providing a means of livelihood for the craftswomen, but is based on a foundation of mutual admiration and respect.
How is Shrujan catering to the demand of contemporary designs?
Shrujan is a beautiful amalgamation of tradition and modernity. Shrujan craftswomen offer embroideries in 50 different styles and work in a collaborative manner with several designers who want to mine raw traditional craft forms and morph it into modern silhouettes.
Even in the early days of Shrujan, my mother was always clear on what will work in urban markets and ensured she married the traditional embroideries with more contemporary wearable garments that has paved the way for a collaborative approach with all designers today as well. Many renowned designers who also worked with Shrujan at the Lakme Fashion Week in 2017 have represented this amalgamation of the traditional and contemporary beautifully without losing the essence of the embroidery.
What kind of role is LLDC playing?
LLDC (Living and Learning Design Centre) based in Bhuj is the culmination of Late Chandaben Shroff’s vision to go beyond merely providing a means of livelihood for craftswomen in the Kutch region. My mother wanted to contribute towards not only preserving the diverse craft forms of this region but also create an enabling space for the younger generations to learn from the traditional and provide an opportunity to set those traditions in today’s context.
LLDC comprises of a world class museum gallery, a library, a training centre and 3 craft studios. A craft school is also planned in near future. In this 8-acre facility set amid natural scenic beauty, anyone inclined to learning embroidery, pottery or art of any kind is made self-reliant & capable while also making an active contribution towards preserving their heritage. LLDC is being run more like a craft school and serves as a melting pot for art and craft enthusiast and designers who want to immerse and understand the traditional craft forms of this unique region. LLDC aims to train, educate and support craftspeople to practice their traditional crafts for the traditional and contemporary markets so they can live a dignified life while carrying forth their heritage with pride.
What did you exhibit at your recent outing in Japan?
The collection was mainly celebratory in nature meant for the festive season with a wide range of pieces like kanchlis, cholis, maharani jackets, wedding lehengas, stoles, kurtas, jackets, heavily embroidered saris, palazzos, skirts and a variety of home décor articles embroidered over high quality cotton, linens and silk.
We recreated the LLDC gallery 1 show called - ‘The living embroideries of Kutch’, which was the main focus of the show done by Hankyu.
(The exhibition will be on at Raintree, No. 4 Sankey Road, Opp. ITC Windsor Sheraton from August 27 to 30)