AROUND THIS time of year, the weather in New York parallels that in Seoul; humidity and overbearing heat press in from every direction. I seek refuge in Manhattan’s Koreatown and the cold noodle soups I grew up with. Eating this way cools you from the inside out.
Recently, Korean and Korean-American chefs have been putting new spins on traditional cold noodle dishes. At Hanjan in New York, chef Hooni Kim makes an exceptional mul naengmyeon, a dish of buckwheat or sweet-potato-starch noodles served in a frozen beef broth...