Bamboo trails

Fashion designer Madhu Jain is as much a techpreneur as she is a creative individual. Saimi Sattar talks to her about her new weaves

Fighting off the tag of a bored housewife two decades ago, designer Madhu Jain decided to turn a home advantage into a remarkable skill, that of using textiles in designing her spaces. She still continues to innovate on tradition to make sure that sustainability remains at the core of her artistic sensibilities and sits easily in any Indian home.

What is the bamboo-silk Ikat all about?

My bamboo-silk Ikat is the first textile of its kind in the world as it ticks all the right ecological boxes, even in its production process. It is 100 per cent biodegradable, leaves a negligible carbon footprint and is anti-bacterial and UV-protective. Because of these extraordinary qualities, it is truly a textile of the future and that too a sustainable one.

What set you on its quest?

As a crafts revivalist and textile conservationist, my work has always been in the organic, handloom space. Most people might not be aware that the fashion industry is the second largest polluter in the world, after oil. I realised that the textiles I innovate need to be mindful of the kind of environmental damage we are doing to Mother Earth. Thus began my quest for a viable green option in clothing. My experiments in alternative textiles led  me to discovering a new yarn in bamboo. And, when I learnt that India is the second-largest bamboo producing country in the world, the full significance of what I was about to embark upon hit me. With such a huge and captive bamboo base, I realised that India is well positioned to grab global ascendency in bamboo-yarn production. And just imagine how these textiles can transform the lives of bamboo farmers.

How is it different from the regular Ikat? And how does it lend itself to the print?

The bamboo yarn that I have perfected over 15 years of R&D is like any other. It can be interwoven with silk, khadi, cotton, wool…you name it! My bamboo-silk Ikat lends itself beautifully to the highly-specialised Ikat weave, and I’ve successfully dyed my collections in various colour palettes.

How has the fashion industry changed and evolved over the years?

From just a handful of designers in the early 1980s, India’s fashion industry has grown monumentally. We were a naive bunch back then and had little business sense. Today, our quality of standards is world class and the world is slowly re-discovering the highly unique Indian sensibility. And yes, competition is cut-throat, unlike when we started out. India’s fashion journey has been nothing short of dynamic and with the buy-in of India’s movers and shakers, including Bollywood, it has risen to greater heights. Finally, the changing face of media has made access that much easier.

How have your designs changed and evolved?

My work is a reflection of my personal journey and beliefs. My textiles are veering more and more towards eco-friendly ones. My life’s quest has been to create the next revolutionary innovation in alternative fibres and leading by example in the eco-friendly space is important as that is what gives my work credibility. I feel there is an urgency in embracing sustainability in the fashion industry.

Kalamkari and paintings of Raja Ravi Varma, how did you utilise them in your work? Where did the idea come from? And how did it blend in with your fashion grammar?

Anything with an Indian ethos resonates with me, which is why my fascination with Raja Ravi Varma. His work is inspirational as not only was he a superb artist, he was far ahead of his times as well. His effective use of Western techniques in his craft was a first and because he made affordable lithographs of his paintings, he was a forerunner in defining fine art for generations in India.

I incorporated innovative features to Andhra Pradesh’s traditional “figurative” Kalamkari by using Raja Ravi Varma’s paintings as the single design element. We did minimal embroidery on the images to keep the purity intact, and also to give an impression of a lithograph on a saree.

You’ve been working on the revival of handlooms. Do you see an appreciation of the same among the younger generation?

Unfortunately, most people have no idea about the effort and time that goes into the making of a handloom textile. You can get the very same weaves a dime a dozen from powerlooms and at a fraction of the price. Only a textile engineer can distinguish between the two. I have travelled extensively and I can state with conviction that Indian handlooms are the best in the world. No one can hold a candle to us.

Which designs complement the Indian body type ?

Indian women tend to have voluptuous figures defined by narrow waists. I’d say that the sari, a very Grecian drape, suits our body type the best. Indian women can really rock a sari like no one else can, and we are blessed to have some 18-odd traditional Indian drapes from across from country.

Who is the ideal Madhu Jain woman?

The Madhu Jain woman spells confidence. She’s a discerning woman who is elegant in her simplicity and choice of unfussy frills.

You participated in the Purnam exhibition recently. What was it about? What are the factors that determine whether you participate in a show?

Purnam was a crafts mela showcasing the best of what India produces. They had a small designer pavilion as well. My overwhelming reason to participate in a show is because I firmly believe that consumption patterns need to change and we should become aware of the environmental crisis our planet is in. When there is a readymade target audience, I can try to influence them by my eco-friendly collection to live in a more ecologically responsible manner.  

What are some of the new elements that you will be introducing in your collections?

Rather than expanding and developing new lines, l will be focussed on deepening my bamboo line.

Fashion tips for the Indian woman?

There is a wealth of best-in-class Indian handlooms just waiting to be tapped which lend themselves to Indian, Western, and Indo-Western wear. Be more environmentally sensitive when buying clothes. And you will stand out as woman with a purpose.

How did you start out in fashion designing?

Indian textiles always captivated me. My dream was to carve a career by professionalising my interest in India’s 2,000-year-old textile tradition. I wanted to build on that tradition, work with artisans and invent new handloom-based textiles and weaves.

What were your growing up years like?

Many of my childhood years were spent in Delhi’s walled city. I drew inspiration from the vivid colours and architectural beauty and vibrancy which surrounded me.

Was there opposition to your profession from your family ?

I am married into a conservative Jain Baniya family. So when I expressed my desire to do something meaningful with my life by taking forward my passion for textiles, the elders in the family dismissed it as a whim and fancy of a bored young housewife as i was 27 or so. I was told just one thing: “No. You can’t do it. You don’t have it in you.” Ironically enough, the “no” doubled my resolve, empowering me. Thus began my journey of discovery, wherein I travelled into India’s villages to learn first-hand from weaver communities.

You’re a path breaker, how have you managed to stay ahead of the game?

By constant innovation. I am not only a fashion designer; my forte lies in creating new textiles in distinctive combinations of two different weaving traditions and are high on quality and design.

What are the new things that you might be experimenting with? In terms of embellishments and cuts?

For those who are familiar with my work, the Madhu Jain label is all about the textile itself. The textile is king, and I use barely-there embellishments. However, when I have used banni mirrorwork, banjara embroidery or just embroidery crafted by displaced tribals living on the Kutch border, I can go to town in making outfits that literally dazzle.

What do you do in your spare time or how do you chill?

Hanging out with old buddies tops my list. My friends are precious to me, and nothing can beat the comfort of old friendships. I also unwind watching movies at home and tuning off from the world.