The Department of History of the University of Kerala has done studies on the origin of Mahadeva temple in Kazhakuttam. A postgraduate dissertation by Jathin Jith (2004) dates its origin between 800 and 1,004 AD. During the time of Veera Rama Marthanda Varma Kulasekhara (AD 1438-1468), the re-consecration ceremony of the temple was conducted by Damodaran Kandan of Mudaiyaman Bhagam in Attinkil [Attingal], Sankran Devan of Sirrur [Chittoor] and Narayanan Devan of Mambally. One of the Cadjan record mentions Tharanalloor Padmanabhan Parameswaran who conducted a kalasam in this temple during 923 Malayalam era (AD 1748).
This temple is one of the 11 Mahadeva temples in erstwhile Travancore. The main portion of the temple, including sreekovil (sanctum sanctorum) and mughamandapam, were built with large blocks of laterite and wooden beams with copper sheet lining in three tiers for roofing. There are many wood carvings and art works in the first and second tier of the sreekovil. Historian R. Vasudeva Poduval finds the influence of the Pallava, Chola, Pandya and Madura Nayak styles in the structure and ornamentation.
The main deity is Siva, and that of Vishnu is installed in the sub-shrine in the north-eastern corner of the main shrine, (locally known as Kuzhiyil Thevar). On the south-east side of the main shrine is the ‘kalithattu’, a square structure with a tiled pyramidal roof. Traditional performing arts were presented on this stage during annual festivals. On the north side of the temple complex was an Oottupura, which has now been demolished. The idol of the temple is taken out in a procession annually to the Kazhakuttam beach, and the road to the beach is known as ‘Aaraattu Vazhi’.
The area in and around Kariyavattom and Kazhakuttam are believed to have been Buddhist/Jain Viharaas. Many names of places are cited as evidence. Some claim that Pothencode may be the colloquial and corrupted version of ‘Budhen code’. So is Puthenthope. Names of places such as Ambalathinkara and Kallampalli are also counted as Buddhist by many due to the use of words such as ‘Ambalam’ and ‘Palli’ in them. The Kazhakuttam Mahadava temple is itself argued as having been a Budha Vihaara. It is said that the Sastha idol in the shrine bordering the National Highway, curiously kept outside the main compound of the temple, could have been the original Buddha idol in the main temple. The local belief is that Sastha stays outside the compound after a tiff with Mahadeva.
Madavoorpara | Photo Credit: Achuthsankar S. Nair
Situated 50 metres above sea level, the Madavoorpara rock temple near Chenkottukonam (which has nothing to do with Kottukonam mangoes), is also traced to Jain and Buddhist origins. Dated 850 AD, the temple has a peedom (seat) and Sivalinga, carved in rock with an inner perambulatory space. There is an inscription in Vattezhuthu (archaic script) in the temple.
Ettuveettil Pillais
Kazhakuttam is famous as home to one of the eight petty chieftains who formed a syndicate to capture power from Marthanda Varma about 285 years ago. ‘Kazhakkoottathu Pillai’ seems to be a title held by scions of a prominent family and was in existence before the period of Marthanda Varma. ‘Kerala Society Papers’ gives the name of one Kazhakkoottathu Pillai as ‘Kalayaperumal’ who was a minister to Ravi Varma, the ruler of Trippappoor in 1685. The last Kazhakkoottathu Pillai was one of the Ettuveettil Pillamaar who revolted in vain against the king- in-waiting, Marthanda Varma.
The pond that travellers see on the right as they enter a by-pass road from Kazhakuttam junction is said to be the spot where the house of Kazhakoottathu Pillai was situated. It was razed and a pond was dug (puthukkulam), giving rise to the phrase ‘kudumbam kulam thonduka’. It may be noted that there are a number of ponds that claim the same origin, both in the city and in Nanjinadu. As a mark of repentance, Marthanda Varma is believed to have constructed a small shrine of Vishnu near the pond, locally known as Kulangara Sri Krishna Swami temple and also built a palace known as Kulangara Kottaram, now in ruins.
Legend goes that the females of the family were sold to fishermen in the nearby coastal areas of Puthenthope, Valiathura, Puthukuirichi and so on. Many Christian communities around Kazhakuttam claim to be descendants of the Pillais. Places as far as Anchuthengu have such claimants. There is a legend about a woman named Sreedevi Muthiamma escaping the wrath of Marthanda Varma and taking refuge with the Muthuvan tribes. Some claim to have migrated to Panthalayani Kollam (Kozhikode).
Historian Sivasankaran Nair holds the view that the ancestors of the Kazhakkoottathu Pillais were Vellalas. Sivasankaran Nair gives the name of Kazhakkoottathu Pillai, who was killed by Marthanda Varma, as ‘Kazhakkoottathu Kanakku Raman Iswaran’ and says that his family had more than 200 years of history as honest servants of Venad rulers. Sivasankaran Nair quotes Mathilakam Churna (904-930, Ola 34-38), ME 914, which describes the trial of the Ettuveettil Pillais. Marthanda Varma is seen asking “Ningalkku ithinvannam okkeyum thonnuvan sangathi enthanu”, “Ithinvannam thonnathakkavannam naam ningalude nere enthu cheithu?” (What is the reason for you to think like this, what did I do to you to make you think like this? [referring to the conspiracy to kill him]).
A nagar kavu existing near a cooperative society is supposed to have been owned by Kazhakkoottathu Pillai. C.V. Raman Pillai, the author of historical works related to erstwhile Travancore, has mentioned about the family of Kazhakkoottathu Pillai in his works such as Marthanda Varma and Dharma Raja.
Existence of kalaris
A five-storeyed, stone Kalarivilakku (a lamp used in places where the martial art of Kalaripayattu was taught) was, till a couple of decades ago, found in ‘Kalavarathoppu’, further north of the Mahadeva temple. There were many kalaris at different places in and around Kazhakuttam. New buildings in the place leave no trace of the kalari or the vilakku. The Pillais were said to have had a weapon manufacturing facility in Kazhakuttam. Some remains of it were found when the ground was excavated for constructing the Technopark.
There were two more families of Pillais related to the Kazhakuttam area. One is Chembazhanthi Pillai/ Madampi, whom some believe to have belonged to the Ezhava caste. There is a place named Kulathoor near Kazhakuttam and some argue that Kulathoor Pillai hailed from this place, but there are others who argue that he hailed from a Kulathoor located south of Thiruvananthapuram.
Did Marthanda Varma ever visit Kazhakuttam? During his minor wars with petty states, he travelled north through Kazhakuttam. Records say, on 18th Makaram 917ME (January 29, 1742), Marthanda Varma left Thiruvananthapuram and halted at ‘Kalakoottam’, in preparation of his war against Kayamkulam. Marthanda Varma’s fame is related to his victory over the Dutch at Colachel. Interestingly, Kazhakuttam has a Dutch connection even today. One of the first companies in Technopark manages the traffic of Netherlands, which was once one of the imperial powers that struggled to gain ascendancy in erstwhile Travancore.
The second part of the series tracing the history and development of Kazhakuttam