Eating out tends to be exorbitant in Val d'Isère and it’s a challenge to find budget options on the slopes. On the upside, standards are high and gourmands will love the burgeoning number of smart new establishments serving top quality traditional and contemporary dishes. Top of the tree is the two-Michelin starred L’Atelier Edmond but there’s also plenty of less fancy cooking for hungry families. For those on a budget, the North American-style lodge at the top of the Solaise gondola has a free-to-use picnic room with microwaves and vending machines.
On the mountain
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Les Marmottes
At the bottom of the Borsat Express chair, Les Marmottes is by far the cheapest self-service on the mountain. No doubt its proximity to the terrain park and a resulting younger clientele makes it in the owner’s interest to keep prices as low as possible. In a resort where food prices tend to be high, it’s encouraging to find decent dishes for less than €15.
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L’Edelweiss
Just off the blue Mangard piste, the L’Edelweiss is slightly cramped, but it has a terrace with dramatic views, and a roaring log fire, particularly welcoming on a cold day. Specialities include casse-croûte du berger (assorted charcuterie, cheeses and salad) and tartiflette.
Les Tufs
Next to the bottom Funival funicular station at La Daille, Les Tufs is a popular lunchtime venue for Val regulars. Good food and service in a convivial atmosphere, with a menu that includes fire-grilled meat, pizza and salads.
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La Fruitière
Part of the Folie Douce self-service restaurant and afternoon party venue, La Fruitière's name is a Savoyard word for a dairy, and the restaurant is decorated with distressed beams, flaky whitewash paint and exposed pipe work. As well as outdoor and indoor tables, there's a giant air-conditioned cellar is tucked away below stairs where guests sit at a long communal table to sample unusual wines and cheese from all over France. The menu includes lots of wholesome meat dishes and a choice of pasta – the spaghetti bolognese served in a glass jar is a house speciality.
Le Signal
At the top of the Le Fornet cable car, Le Signal has a pleasant dining room as well as a self-service, both run with enthusiasm by tireless staff. The waiter service restaurant is brightly decorated with paintings by local artists, and the menu relies on traditional French cuisine using fresh ingredients.
La Peau de Vache
The rising star of the mountain eateries, with some old hands claiming La Peau de Vache now has the best food and service of all. This is the kind of smart but welcoming mountain eaterie that you find in the Trois Vallées but not, until now, in Val d'Isère. Half way down the La Face black run, it’s reached by the Bellevarde Express chair.
L’Étincelle
Meaning ‘spark’, L’Étincelle opened in December 2017 at the foot of Solaise. It's easily reached on skis or on foot and has great views across the village. Decoration is modern alpine, and it serves barbecued meat and pizzas.
In the resort
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Chez Paulo
A good value Italian, Chez Paulo is located at the rond point des pistes. It serves typical Italian specialities including pizza, pasta, meat dishes, homemade ice cream and traditional desserts, and booking is recommended as it's often busy. Pizzas can also be ordered to take away.
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La Baraque
By far the most popular restaurant in Val among the locals, which says a lot, La Baraque remains open for much of the year. It provides consistently good food at reasonable prices and is also a resort rendezvous for those wanting a quiet drink in convivial surroundings.
Sur La Montagne
Contrary to its name, Sur La Montagne is on the main street and not on the mountain. It's extremely popular with locals and it's advisable to book some time ahead for the evening (but not at lunchtime). The menu includes Thai dishes, fondue, steak and pasta dishes.
Le Lodge
Successfully hugging the middle market in Val d'Isère, Le Lodge offers a great choice of local dishes, pizza, and all the usual alpine fare. The steaks are particularly succulent.
La Casserole
A stalwart for fondue, raclette, and all the other Savoyard cheese dishes, La Casserole is great for a one-night outing, but hangs heavy on the digestive system after frequent visits.
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La Grande Ourse
This first opened in 1936 when there was only one lift on the mountain – just outside the restaurant's door. Many consider La Grande Ourse to be Val’s finest restaurant for lunch or dinner, with a menu that includes the likes of lobster ravioli, duck foie gras with sautéed apples and grilled Dover sole.
La Table de l’Ours
The top (and most expensive) of the three restaurants in the five-star Les Barmes de l’Ours hotel, La Table is a true gastro experience. Recommended dishes include scampi roasted with ginger and lime, or rack of lamb with sweet potato mash, although the ambience is slightly formal and the bill can be high.
L’Atelier Edmond
In Le Fornet, presided over by master chef Benoit Vidal and with two Michelin stars, L’Atelier Edmond is a wonderful, but pricey, place for a special celebration. However, there’s also a well-priced brasserie adjoining the restaurant with more moderate prices.