Zermatt: piste guide

From satisfying reds and undulating blues to acres of off piste, Zermatt has it all. The resort has 200km of pistes across three linked sectors – Sunnegga-Blauherd-Rothorn, Gornergrat-Stockhorn and Trockener Steg-Schwarzsee – with top stations at, respectively, 3,103m, 3,532m and 3,820m.

There's easy access to the Italian side (although it does take time to get over there; allow a whole day if you want to explore), with the linked slopes of Cervinia and Valtournenche providing another 160km of pistes. Take euros to Italy, as paying in Swiss francs will negate the cheaper prices, and don’t miss the last lift home. All Zermatt's sectors are linked in both directions and there are two routes into Italy – the ridge at Testa Grigia and the Theodulpass.

At first glance the ski area is not ideal for beginners and small children, with nursery slopes spread far apart over various parts of the mountain. On the plus side, they’re high enough to offer reliable snow and great views; they are well separated from the main slopes and close to restaurants for meeting friends or family; they have moving carpets, bollards, tunnels and lots of fun obstacles; and the glacier runs are a good place to get some near-flat (though sometimes chilly) mileage. Best of all, children under 10 years don't pay for a lift pass.

For intermediates there are plenty of long, scenic, satisfying runs, plus lots of challenges and areas of easily accessible gentle off piste. Two thirds of runs are red; some, such as the red off the top of Hohtalli in the Gornergrat sector, are tough enough to be described as “dark red”. All of Cervinia makes an intermediate paradise, with wide and usually deserted pistes, including the long run down to Valtournenche village which, when freshly pisted, makes you feel like a downhill racer.

The main attraction for experts is the off piste and yellow itineraries (runs that are avalanche controlled but not patrolled). The usually deserted Stockhorn section is often mogulled and opens from February (it needs better snow cover than other areas). The forest itineraries on Schwarzsee, and two from the Rothorn, are similarly testing.

Off-piste opportunities are extensive with a mountain guide; more so if you’re willing to hike up using touring skins or fork out for heliskiing. Beyond the lift system there are mountain huts for overnight or hut-to-hut tours, such as the shiny modern Monte Rosa hut (viewable from the Gornergrat), and the traditional Schoenbiel, a few hours' hike up the valley from Stafelalp.