Dakshin revamped: Amalgam of the South

Stepping into Dakshin, the familiar palatial décor, is like being transported to a time of monarchs and endless riches. The entrance is adorned with the traditional vilakku (lamp) and the urli filled with flower petals floating in water, and the walls dotted with south Indian artefacts. What’s not so familiar is the menu, renewed with flavours of south India with which we may not be so familiar.

Hyderabad-born chef Praveen Anand who works in Chennai’s ITC Grand Chola spearheaded the menu overhaul, bringing with him his forever expanding knowledge of south Indian cuisine — he is after all the creator of Dakshin. He sits before us with a relaxed confidence, humbleness and swagger as he regales us with tales of palates past and beyond. He’s something of an academic with his evolving curiosity and love for history — and this passion has fuelled a new menu. The various hues and textures of the pan-Indian dishes set contrastingly against the copper hues of the plate is worth a couple of photos for the cloud. The menu now features 40 vegetarian dishes and 27 non-vegetarian of which 28 are new dishes specially revived from history.

A small bowl of — take a breath — chinna vengaya patchai milagai mandi is perfect with some rice. I personally love Madras small onions and this dish has just the right amount with other fanciful ingredients like butterbeans and jumbo chillies. Karnataka brings to the fore ananas mensakai, a pineapple curry sporting a vibrant orange tinge, brought to life with byadgi chilli and coconut.

For the non-vegetarians, Telangana’s kodi gajaala will ring a bell with its rich marinade of green chillies and onion which is quite appetising and will have you beckoning for more with a happy smile. Fish lovers will have a ball with the Kerala’s meen pollichathu, a spicy seasonal fish fillet lovingly wrapped in a banana leaf. And let’s not forget the uragai mamsam, a pickle-inspired mutton curry teeming with tomato and vinegar; while the meat is succulent, the spiciness really takes the cake and I found myself smacking my lips and licking my fingers a little too loudly for such a fancy place. And what is all of this without a delicate wisp of an appam with which to shovel all of this into your mouth?

Overwhelmed? The trick is to start off gently with the adais, banana-flavoured dosais and kuzhipaniyarams, all served with in-house chutneys. Then rest a bit, talk a little... maybe wander around ITC Kakatiya for a bit before really gearing up for the generous servings of the main course.

And of course, the desserts. Fragrant and delicious, these dishes are a home away from home. A warm serving of aadikumayam halwa and a cooling one of kadal patchee will send you home with the dreamiest of food comas.