Ramzan’s protein power food

Surat: Post-azan at sunset during the holy month of Ramzan, fasts for the ceremonial iftar are usually broken with protein-packed mini meals, which provide instant energy and long-lasting content.
Full of flavour settled within the well-marinated meat, which is an inherent quality of slow-cooked dum (smoked delicacies over charcoal fire), this special fare is prepared in large quantities for private orders as well as general public that lines up to book their portion for the day.

At the bend of Saudagarwaad in the Walled City, the aroma of meat laced with basting of clarified butter leads to the open kitchen of Haji Ahmedbhai Ganibhai Bhatiyara. “We get our surname from four generations of running these bhattis,” says the Bhatiyara family.

From boti biryani — which has succulent lamb chops layered with saffron and kewra-flavoured rice — to Hyderabadi haleem — beaten wheat broth spiked with grains, ginger and shredded meat served with crispy fried onions, chopped chillies, coriander and a dash of lime — makes a sublime dish and fast observer’s soul food. Home-style cooking lends unique taste to the cuisine, which is styled after royal taste, but caters to the common man.

Another favourite is khichda, a nutritious preparation with mutton, which also consists of cereals and pulses for which lapsi dalia (broken wheat) has to be soaked overnight. “Shahjeera (caraway seeds), pudina (fresh mint), peppercorns and sarson patte (mustard leaves) add up for the main flavours, while yoghurt and ghee balance the spices,” says Irfanbhai Bhatiyara, who heads the team of expert cooks.

With changing times, more modern preparations have been added to the street food menu.

The youngest cook in the family Mohammad Safwaan points out, “The new generation demands fancy food so we have now added Italian biryani, which has mixed boneless meat pieces layered in rice and silk chicken rolls that has tender chicken pieces wrapped in egg-bound flour pancakes and is deep fried.”