Practically all of Heavenly’s slopes are cut through forest, but in many areas the forest is not dense and there is excellent tree skiing. The trail map gives a good indication of the density of trees. As elsewhere in the US, this ‘off-piste’ terrain is ‘patrolled’, but only by hollering – ineffective if you are unconscious; don’t ski the trees alone.
Two days a week, am and pm, there are free and excellent mountain tours led by forest rangers.
Extent of the slopes
The mountain is complicated, and getting from A to B requires more careful navigation than is usual on American mountains. Quite a few of the links between different sectors involve long, flat tracks.
There is a clear division between the California side of the mountain (above South Lake Tahoe) and the Nevada side. If lift closures leave you on the wrong side, it’s not a big deal – the bus rides don’t take long.
The gondola from South Lake Tahoe goes to one end of the California side. There is no skiing back to the town. At the other end of this side, the steep lower slopes are served by the Aerial Tramway (cable car) and Gunbarrel fast chair from California Lodge. The much more extensive upper slopes are served by four fast chairs, one going up to the Skyline trail to the Nevada side.
The Nevada side is more fragmented, but the central focus is East Peak Lodge. Above it is an excellent intermediate area, served by two fast quad chairs, with a downhill extension served by the Galaxy chair. From the fast Dipper chair back up, you can access the open terrain of Milky Way Bowl, leading to the seriously steep Mott and Killebrew Canyons, served by the slow Mott Canyon chair. Below East Peak Lodge are runs down to Nevada’s two bases, Stagecoach and Boulder – the latter often quiet because its chairs are slow.
Fast lifts
Most people can spend practically all their time on fast chairs. The Mott Canyon chair is slow, but that’s a niche market. The main weaknesses are the slow chairs up from Boulder Lodge.
Snow reliability
Heavenly claims an impressive average of 9m per year, but the weather here is much less consistent than further inland and the last few seasons have been very dry and warm. When snow is poor and temperatures are cold enough, intermediates can still have a good time thanks to impressive snowmaking and grooming. But much of the challenging ungroomed terrain can be closed when snow is poor. Lake Tahoe TV provides updates on snow conditions each day.
For experts
The black runs under the California base lifts – including the Face and Gunbarrel (often used for mogul competitions) – are seriously steep. We’ve seen lots of people struggling on the top-to-bottom icy bumps. Many of the single diamonds higher up are at the easy end of the range. Ellie’s, at the top of the mountain, may offer continuous moguls too, but was groomed and a great fast cruise when we last skied it. Skiways Glades and the Pinnacles, to skier’s right of that, offer friendly, widely spaced trees. Lower down, Maggie’s Canyon is highly rated.
On the Nevada side there are some excellent single-diamond glade areas too – notably to skier’s left of the slow North Bowl chair. And there is some really steep stuff. Milky Way Bowl provides a gentle single-diamond introduction to the double-diamond terrain beyond it: the chutes in the otherwise densely wooded Mott and Killebrew Canyons are seriously steep and narrow. They are accessed through roped gateways, and are not to be underestimated. The Mott Canyon chair is slow, but you may not mind. Good natural snow is needed for the Canyons to be enjoyable (or open).
For intermediates
The California side offers a progression from the relaxed cruising of the long Ridge Run, starting right at the top of the mountain, to more challenging blues dropping off the ridge towards Sky Deck. More confident intermediates will want to spend time on the Nevada side, where there is more variety of terrain, more carving space and some great longer cruises down to the lift bases. But really strong intermediates looking for challenges need to be prepared to step up to the tree runs – maybe starting with Powderbowl Woods or The Pines – or to the blacks, which are often mogulled.
For beginners
There are excellent beginner areas at the top of the gondola, at California Lodge and at Boulder Lodge. On the California side there are gentle green runs to progress to at the top of the cable car. Package deals of tuition and lift ticket are worth looking into.
For snowboarders
Heavenly has several terrain parks, and the resort’s naturally varied terrain makes a perfect playground for advanced freeriders. Intermediates will have fun too, especially if there’s powder in the trees. And there are good areas for beginners. But beware: there are many flat spots where you’ll have to scoot.
For cross-country
None at Heavenly but plenty at cross-country centres around the lake.
Where to Ski and Snowboard
This guide is taken from Where to Ski and Snowboard, edited by Chris Gill and Dave Watts. Chris now produces Where to Ski guides to individual countries. Find out more and receive an exclusive book discount.