Livigno’s recipe of a fair-sized mountain, high altitude and fairly low prices is uncommon, and obviously attractive, and may be enough to get it on to your shortlist, especially if you are a beginner or unadventurous intermediate. But don’t overlook the non-trivial drawbacks.
After banning off piste for several years up to 2012/13 the resort now allows it and has heli-skiing as well.
Livigno is set in a wide, remote valley near the Swiss border; the airport transfers are long and winding. The Alta Valtellina lift pass covers Bormio (about an hour’s bus ride – free with the lift pass) and Santa Caterina (another 20 minutes). The Livigno pass gets you half-price on one day in St Moritz – an excursion not easily done from any other major resort.
We like
Reliable snow
Large choice of beginners’ slopes
Impressive modern lift system
Cheap by the standards of high, snow-sure resorts
Lively, friendly, quite smart village with a good Alpine atmosphere
Long, snow-sure cross-country trails
We don't like
Few tough pistes
Mainly above the treeline, so susceptible to white-outs
Very long transfers from some Italian airports (Innsbruck is quicker)
Village is very long and straggling, with no buses later in the evening
Nightlife can disappoint
Village charm
At the core of the resort is a single, mainly pedestrian street that is just over 1km long and is lined by hotels, bars, specialist shops and supermarkets, with side streets linking to the parallel by-pass road. The buildings are small in scale and traditional in style, creating a pleasant atmosphere. Away from the central area, traffic can be intrusive.
Convenience
It’s a long, spread-out place – over 4km from one end to the other. The pedestrian core is the most attractive all-round location, but the three major lifts are out at the extremities. Unless you opt to stay near one of these, you will make heavy use of the free bus services, but they get overcrowded at peak times and they stop at around 8pm. The complex route map requires serious study, but the services are regular and efficient. Taxis (including minibuses for groups) are affordable.
Scenery
Livigno’s high position and long ridges provide attractive views from both sides of the valley – but it can feel bleak and isolated.
Where to Ski and Snowboard
This guide is taken from Where to Ski and Snowboard, edited by Chris Gill and Dave Watts. Chris now produces Where to Ski guides to individual countries. Find out more and receive an exclusive book discount.