Many years ago I visited an extraordinary restaurant called Asador Etxebarri near Bilbao. The kitchen was tiny, with two bread ovens along one wall and one giant barbecue with adjustable grills spread across the other. In between these was room for just two chefs to move. From this kitchen came beautiful bread, smoked butters and vegetables, grilled meats, delicious romesco and much more. It made me see barbecue in an entirely different way. Here, the fire lends wonderfully complex flavours to an otherwise simple grilled fish.
Chargrilled mackerel with pineapple and star anise relish
This delicately spiced and slightly fiery relish is vibrant, citrussy and makes a lovely contrast to the oily mackerel.
Prep 20 min
Infuse 30 min
Cook 15 min
Serves 4
4 whole mackerel, gutted
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
For the relish
30g sugar
60ml cider vinegar
60ml water
3 cloves
2 star anise
½ cinnamon stick
2-3 pinches dried chilli flakes
400g pineapple (about half a fruit)
½ red onion, finely diced
2 limes, juiced
1 small bunch coriander, finely chopped
Light a barbecue and wait until the coals are hot embers – or heat the oven to 220C/425F/gas 7. To make the relish, bring the sugar, vinegar, water and spices to a simmer in a small pan. Stir to dissolve the sugar, turn off the heat and set aside for 20 minutes to infuse.
Meanwhile peel, core and dice the pineapple into small, hazelnut-size cubes, put in a medium-sized bowl with the onion, squeeze over the lime juice then refrigerate for 10 minutes.
Pour the infused spice liquid through a sieve on to the pineapple and stir in the coriander. Put back in the fridge.
Fifteen minutes before you’re ready to eat, take the pineapple out of the fridge and prepare the mackerel. Rub all over with a tablespoon of oil and season generously inside and out with salt and pepper. Grill, barbecue or roast for 11-14 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish, until a skewer glides into the thickest part of the fish with no resistance.
Put the mackerel on to plates and drizzle with the rest of the olive oil. Serve with the relish and a new potato salad.
And for the rest of the week
You can reserve the pickling spices and use them again to pickle cucumbers or other fruit (I love pickled plums). The relish is also delicious with grilled pork – marinate in a mixture of dried red chillies or smoked paprika, crushed garlic, fennel seeds, thyme and olive oil – then throw on the same barbecue.
- Food styling: Aya Nishimura