Last updated 16:32, April 24 2018
Weaver Veranoa Hetet gives stuff a beginners lesson on the differences between Māori cloaks.
Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern turned heads when she attended a dinner at Buckingham Palace wearing a Māori 'korowai'.
Except she wasn't.
Lower Hutt weaver, Veranoa Hetet, said a korowai is defined by decorative tassels, which were not present on the cloak worn by Ardern.
Weaver Veranoa Hetet with a kahukiwi woven by her mother, Erenora Puketapu-Hetet.
Hetet said the umbrella term for Māori cloaks is kākahu, and the style Ardern wore was a kahu huruhuru, as it was decorated in feathers, while the headline using 'korowai' travelled the world.
Ngāti Rānana, the group that loaned Ardern the kākahu, referred to the cloak as a korowai.
Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern attends The Queen's Dinner at Buckingham Palace, with partner Clarke Gayford.
"An honour for us to loan one of our korowai to New Zealand Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern last night as she met Her Majesty The Queen," said the group in an online message.
"The second time this year the Queen encountered this particular korowai, previously meeting our Whaea Esther at Westminster Abbey for the Commonwealth Day Service."
A professor at Massey University's Māori visual arts programme, Dr Bob Jahnke, agreed with Hetet, however.
Prince Charles Ardern and Gayford in a receiving line during a reception at the Queen's Dinner.
"A korowai has tags," said Jahnke. "It is not a korowai."
Hetet said the word korowai was often misused.
She decided to spend a day tweeting about different styles of kākahu, to help bring back traditional terms.
A kahu huruhuru, which features feathers from different types of birds, woven by Erenora Puketapu-Hetet.
"I was scrolling through emails and there was one email that showed this machine woven, full feathered cape, and someone asking for my advice about the 'korowai,' that's what prompted it."
Hetet dedicated a day to sharing pictures of different styles of kākahu with descriptions of what defined that style.
She hoped to bring back the traditional terms, and stop people using such terms when referring to machine-made garments.
A korowai, which is defined by tassels called hukahuka, woven by Dame Rangimarie Hetet.
"We feel that by using these traditional terms to speak of a machine-made cape, it's belittling to the months of work that our great-grandmother put into weavingthese garments."
A traditional hand-woven kākahu can take six to nine months to make if the weaver works on it full time.
The kahu huruhuru worn by Ardern was originally made for the wedding of a women named Gretchen, who later gave it to Ngāti Rānana on permanent loan.
A kahukiwi, a type of kākahu, which primarily features kiwi feathers, woven by Erenora Puketapu-Hetet.
Hetet said she thought Ardern wore the kahu huruhuru very well.
"I thought she wore it beautifully, and I thought it was very gracious of her to wear it."
Hetet had been weaving since she was 13, but said she had been surrounded by Māori weaving and carving since she was born.
Her great-grandmother, Dame Rangimarie Hetet, was knighted due to her weaving abilities.