NEW YEAR’S EVE, blind dates, snowy weather and shopping for underwear all rate as experiences that are fun in theory but are rarely so in reality. In my experience, the most challenging pair of skivvies to stock is the everyday panty. When I emailed a group of friends asking if anyone had a preferred brand, one replied that she felt frustrated with underwear “at a global level.” Anna Furman, 27, a San Francisco-based writer, wrote, “I want seamless underwear that’s slightly stretchy but doesn’t feel like workout material—a not-thong-but-not-granny panty.”
Enthusiasm for the once-ubiquitous thong rose through the 1990s and peaked in the mid 2000s. In 2004, this newspaper covered lingerie company Hanky Panky in an article titled “A Tiny Scrap Of Fabric Wins A Huge Following,” positing that working women appreciated the company’s lace thongs for making them feel feminine.
But this past year brief sales grew faster than those of thongs, according to market research company NPD Group. And while cheapo cotton brief packs and more luxe designer pairs were once the only options, many alternative underwear brands have emerged, marketing briefs with a gently feminist spin. “It felt like there was a gap between sportswear and fancy lingerie,” said Marie-Louise Mogensen, founder of the line Baserange, which makes just that, appealing basics in neutral colors. “Women are more comfortable with who we are now, and we’re very aware of what makes us comfortable.”
Last month, direct-to-consumer brand Everlane unveiled its new intimates line with a press release boldly declaring, “Underwear should be made for you. But for decades, it’s been designed with someone else in mind.” I was intrigued by the simplicity of their six-piece Supima cotton collection (four underwear cuts plus a bra and bodysuit). Could this be the kind I was seeking?
Determined to find an array of options for myself, I tried on 101 different styles by 38 brands, from budget scores to luxury picks. I gravitated toward fuller-coverage hipster styles over teenier bikinis, favoring material that was soft yet substantial. These are the completely subjective standouts in three categories, from quotidian to top-drawer drawers.
Mass But Not Mundane
The Winner Love by GapBody Stretch Cotton Hipster, $11, gap.com
Gap’s mostly cotton underwear fit the bill for a comfy but supportive feel, and the striped pattern elevated an otherwise simple style.
Runners-Up Commando’s cotton bikini was true to its name, light enough to feel nearly nonexistent. While I’m not normally a fan of branded bands, Calvin Klein Underwear’s Modern Cotton Bikini had me imagining myself in #mycalvins campaigns: I watch Netflix in #mycalvins, I eat spoonfuls of almond butter in #mycalvins, etc.
Uniquely Indie
The Winner Baserange Classic Bell Pants, $26, baserange.net Among the newer upstart brands, Baserange’s ribbed underwear stood out from the pack. Pretty and basic at the same time, it’s made of organic cotton and topped with a delicate elastane band.
Runners-Up Everlane’s hipster style was everything it was promised to be: simple, comfy, low-key. Botanica Workshop’s bikini was as cute as the pearly little button sewn onto its waistband, one of my favorite details on the many pairs I tried.
Haute Yet Habitable
The Winner Hanro Cotton Seamless Hi-Cut Brief, $38, hanrousa.com The cotton used in the haute, $30-and-up category tends to be superiorly soft. This Hanro pair certainly is, along with having a high-waisted, full-coverage cut with retro appeal.
Runners-Up Zimmerli claims to make the “world’s finest underwear,” and its Madison slip bikini, composed of soft ribbed cotton, almost lived up to the hype. Araks’s Isabella bikini in pleasantly thick cotton featured charming contrasting crochet trim.