Move it like your paatis

CHENNAI : Almost 15 years ago, I remember sitting next to an old hand-pump in our backyard, along with my grandmother. She pulled a rather heavy block of black stone slab, spread some wet spices over it and began grinding it with a kuzhavi (an oval stone rolling pin). Enthused, I tried my hand at moving the heavy kuzhavi back and forth. Though it was exhausting, it was also a moment of pride, when I learnt that I had helped her in making the spice paste for a lip-smacking chutney, which the whole family would later devour.  Cut to present, the whizzing sound of mixies and grinders are all one can hear. 

The use of ammi is similar to the functional movement patterns we are trained to do in gyms and other circuit workouts. Sometimes, I cannot stop but wonder if using those kitchen tools, which were once a domestic must have, was the reason why my grandmother was fit even at a ripe age of 70.It’s 10.30 am. As we enter Kokila Sambandam’s house in Indira Nagar, the 80-year-old founding member of the area’s ladies club is busy preparing a Mexican style salsa sauce, as an accompaniment for poori. “I mostly prepare all the sides and chutney using the ammikal. It gives a wonderful flavour and also keeps me fit,” she says and walks us to the room adjacent to the kitchen. We see an ammikal mounted on top of a pillar and, an aatukal parallel to it. “The aatukal is about 75-years-old and belonged to my mother. She bought it for `2!” she says, pointing to the tool that has limited patronage these days.

Using these stone equipment have been her daily dose of workout for decades. Kokila asserts that it’s equivalent to any exercise. “While using the ammi, one has to apply a certain amount of pressure on the kuzhavi and also move back and forth to grind,” she explains.

These movements straighten the back, stabilise the abdomen and also strengthen the upper body. “But of course, when we used it earlier, we never thought of it as an exercise. It was just an added bonus, along with flavourful dishes,” she smiles. 

While rich idli and dosa batter, arugampul (Bermuda grass) juice, spices for tangy rasam and stuffing for sweet boli were made using these tools, they also helped in keeping one both physically and mentally fit. Rajam, another 80-year-old swears by the thirugai, a traditional rolling stone grinder used to grind dal varieties. “While using the thirugai, there is intense hip and hand rotation. This stretches the muscles,” she says. 

If you were to set ‘workout goals’, these series of movements that millennials refer to as oblique and core workouts, would top your list. “The thirugai had the same effect of what hip rotation exercises would do to the body,” she adds. It enables in removing muscle strain, strengthens the core and trims the waist. “It also relieves tension and stress. Using these tools weren’t as strenuous as you’d think it was. In fact, I enjoyed doing it and it has kept me fit,” she beams. 

Nalina Kannan, owner, Thaligai Restaurant, is known for reinstating traditional dishes and cooking methods. Ask her about the physical benefits of using these equipment and she says, “Workout of any kind activates the endocrines. In today’s hustle and bustle, not many get the time to work out. But fortunately, for us, we had the time and also the opportunity to be fit while using these equipments which most millennials are oblivious of,” she shares. 

Even the small mortar and pestle used in grinding spices and the wooden churner used to prepare creamy buttermilk helped in strengthening and improving wrist mobility. “In fact, I am planning to bring all of these traditional equipment to our restaurant for a summer workshop where both children and young mothers can learn to use them. Though a full fledged meal cannot be prepared today with these tools, a few dishes can be done while simultaneously working out,” she says. 

Shanthi Manivannan, a 75-year-old concurs, “I wish these tools make a come back. I see my grandchildren pay money for working out in gyms. The same shoulder press workout they do there can be done even with a thenkuzhal and sevai nazhi! In the end you get a delicious crispy snack like thenkuzhal too,” she smiles, as she presses the thenkuzhal achu over a kadai of hot oil. “Using these equipment will save them both time and money. I think they can learn a thing or two about cooking and also get fit. All they need is a simple kitchen tool!”