Five of the best design-led watches
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These unique and stylish timepieces draw on the expertise of some of the world's best designers
Mondaine Essence
Designed in 1944 by Swiss engineer and SBB employee Hans Hilfiker, the Swiss railway clock has one of the most instantly recognisable dials; its simple, easy-to-read layout has even won favour with the likes of Apple, who licenced it for use on its iPhones. If there's one brand that can claim ownership over the design in the modern age, however, it's Mondaine. For decades the watchmaker has carefully tweaked the design, incorporating new innovations and technologies that bring it firmly up-to-date while retaining the spirit of the original. With its Essence range it is leading the way in incorporating eco-friendly materials into its timepieces, from the renewable Ricinus (caster oil) used to make the case to the multi-purpose pouch crafted from recycled bottles.
Nomos Glashutte Autobahn
Nomos Glashutte may be praised for its considerable in-house technical capabilities, but what really sets it apart from its Swiss counterparts is its design-focused approach. Separate from its watchmaking facilities in Glashutte is its dedicated design agency Berlinerblau in the German capital, where the distinctive look of its watches is conceived. The brand is also not averse to bringing in outside talent, seen in such pieces as the Mark Braun-designed Metro, which has gone on to win the Red Dot Award among other prizes. Its latest sees it utilise the skills of furniture designer Werner Aisslinger to create a new watch inspired by the automotive world, defined by a curve of Superluminova on the dial that recalls the dashboard instruments found in vintage cars.
Junghans Max Bill Automatic
A Bauhaus alumni, Max Bill brought a streamlined and purist aesthetic to his horological work for Junghans. Among the most notable pieces is his functional kitchen clock dating back to 1956-7, which has earned a place in the MoMa's collection as a good example of everyday design in the post-war era. By 1961 this had expanded to a collection of wristwatches for the German watchmaker, which still remain a core part of its offering today. Here this timeless design has been kitted out with an automatic movement and date at three 'o'clock, a discreet addition to the otherwise classic and uncluttered dial.
Braun AW10
Braun may be primarily known for its electric shavers, but it has a long history producing audio technology, kitchen gadgets, clocks and watches, all united by their purist and functional design. Of the latter, one of its most iconic timepieces – the AW10 – originated in 1989 under Dieter Rams' tenure as director of design. The brand's first analogue wristwatch, it embodies the industrial designer's 'less but better' philosophy, with a clean and pared back approach that has successfully stood the test of time.
Hermes Carre H
In 2010, Hermes entrusted architect and designer Marc Berthier to create a new timepiece to add to the luxury house's horological offering. The result was the unusual Carre H, with its industrial curved square case, bold typeface and simple and practical lugs. Eight years later it has been brought back with some slight tweaks, offered in steel with an upsized case and crosshatch detailing in the centre of the dial that offers an interesting play on light.
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