Neil Perry's two simple, great pasta dishes

These two simple pastas just need a salad, crusty bread and a glass of good chianti to make a great lunch. The key is using the starchy pasta water in the sauces to make them stick to flavour them deeply. I love the alla gricia, a white amatriciana of Rome. The flavour from the pork cheek and cheese is just perfect.

Cacio e pepe

Serves 4

400g spaghetti

320g pecorino romano, very finely grated, plus extra to serve

120g parmigiano reggiano, very finely grated, plus extra to serve

2 tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus extra to serve

1. Place a large pot with 1½ litres of water over high heat, bring to the boil and salt lightly, add the pasta, stir well and cook for one minute less than the time indicated on the packet. Before draining, spoon 1 cup of the starchy, foamy water off the top and reserve.

2. Meanwhile, in a bowl large enough to mix all the pasta, combine the pecorino, parmigiano and black pepper.

3. Once the pasta is al dente and drained, add to the cheese mixture. Mix well, then gradually stir in some of the reserved cooking water, a tablespoon at a time, just until the cheese melts and the sauce coats the pasta. It should have the consistency of thick cream. You'll only need half to three-quarters of the reserved pasta water.

4. Divide the pasta between 4 bowls. Give an extra grind of black pepper and sprinkling of both cheeses. Serve immediately.

Alla gricia

Serves 4

400g rigatoni

300g guanciale (cured pork cheek), skin removed and thinly sliced

125ml dry white wine

100g pecorino romano, grated, plus extra to serve, if desired

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Add the pasta, stir well and cook for one minute less than the time indicated on the packet. Before draining, spoon ½ cup of the starchy foamy water off the top and reserve.

2. Meanwhile, heat a large frying pan and add the guanciale (available from quality Italian butchers). Cook over medium heat in batches, if necessary, for 3-5 minutes, until the guanciale releases its fat and becomes crisp. Turn up the heat and pour in the wine, then cook for a couple of minutes while the wine reduces.

3. Add the drained pasta to the pan, along with 3 tablespoons of the reserved starchy cooking water. Mix everything together and continue to cook over medium heat until the pasta is al dente. Remove from heat, then stir in the pecorino to thicken the sauce.

4. Divide the pasta between 4 bowls, add a grind of black pepper and a bit more cheese if you like, and serve immediately.

Food photography: William Meppem. Styling: Hannah Meppem. Food preparation: Nick Banbury.