Cafe Blue
Food: 666
Service: 666
Ambience: 666
Price: $$-$$$
Address: 5280 Spine Road, Boulder
Contact: 303-530-4345, cafebluegunbarrel.com
Hours:
11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Friday
4-9 p.m. Saturday
Credit cards: Yes
Noise level: Moderate, as everyone seemed to be having a good time but also knows how to keep things from getting out of hand.
The dining scene in Gunbarrel is in a state of flux nowadays, with an infusion of new venues taking up space alongside longterm old favorites. Among the more enduring eateries is Cafe Blue, tucked away in a strip mall a stone's throw from King Soopers. Unsurprisingly, Cafe Blue has the comfortably lived-in feel of a popular neighborhood spot, with friendly, but not overly intrusive service.
The set up here is as much pub as cafe, and both the bar and dining areas were packed at dinnertime on a cool weeknight. The menu spans from stalwart tavern favorites to more rarefied gourmet fare. Starters range from chicken wings to prosciutto wrapped scallops, and burgers share space on the bill of fare with such delicacies as cioppino and gnocchi in blue cheese cream sauce. The only thing missing was the Cincinnati chili, which previously had been a menu staple, and I had always given Cafe Blue props for featuring this seldom seen regional specialty.
A starter of $9.50 crispy Brussels sprouts made for a generous portion of whole cruciferous vegetables liberally drizzled with shavings of Asiago cheese. Unfortunately, these sprouts possessed a texture more consistent with steaming versus another technique, such as sautéing, that would have better delivered on this dish's crispy billing. While bacon and a balsamic reduction were among the other ingredients, these elements did not make for as harmonious of a taste as one would have hoped for.
Our server helpfully informed us that some salads were available in a wallet friendly $5 side portion, so both my dining companion and I took advantage of this offer. My friend opted for the Caesar, a reasonably straightforward interpretation of this classic, which went above and beyond the standard crisp romaine lettuce base. Asiago provided a nuttier tasting alternative to traditional Parmesan as the cheese of choice, and tomato slices contributed satisfying bulk not found in the original.
Fresh, colorful, and value-packed best described my selection of a side tomato mozzarella salad. While the expected elements of red fruit, creamy fresh cheese, and tantalizingly sharp basil were all present, this preparation was boosted by the presence of a pleasing assortment of field greens and artichoke heart.
As far as main courses went, a $19.50 chicken parmesan was on the higher end when it came to price. The pan-fried chicken breast was perfectly prepared when it came to tender and moist texture, no easy feat given this part's low fat content. But the traditional Italian-American red sauce needed some work. Appealingly vivid in appearance, especially when contrasted with melted white mozzarella and verdant spinach evoking the Italian tricolor, the flavor tended more towards the acidic, throwing the pasta off balance. An underlying foundation of spaghetti was fine, cooked to a decent al dente texture.
More successful was the $23 risotto, which provided more bang for the buck than the parmesan. Short grain rice had just a bit of give in the center, with the outer parts of the grain contributing to an overall creamy texture, as it should be. Saffron and basil balanced out both delicate and sharper flavor tones, and the rice on its own would have made for a fine nibble.
Other elements were top notch, and calamari, shrimp, scallops and mussels all spotlighted fresh flavor and just-right cooking. Spicy Italian sausage added a heftier counterbalance to the seafood, and this land-based ingredient's lively seasoning complemented the delicate subtlety of the shellfish. Of all the dishes of the dinner, this was the most successful, and it wouldn't have been out of place in a more formal and expensive eatery.
Dessert consisted of a reasonably priced $6.75 hunk of Thin Mint ice cream pie. This cream colored confection arrived attractively drizzled with chocolate sauce and garnished with fresh strawberry. The rich cocoa flavor, tempered by the mint's sharpness did not disappoint, and this sweet would be particularly appealing to fans of its namesake Girl Scout cookie. In the interest of full disclosure, I get panicky during Girl Scout cookie season if I ever have less than two boxes in my freezer at any given time.
It's easy to see how Cafe Blue's something-for-everyone menu contributes to its considerable weeknight popularity. Granted, some preparations, like the Brussels sprouts and red sauce could benefit from easy fixes with respect to texture and flavor. But on the other hand, courses like the salads and risotto represent everything you'd want from your friendly neighborhood eatery and then some.
