“This is an art,” says Dhayalan K. The shoemaker rhythmically beats a leather sole with a hammer at his shop in Mamallapuram. He pauses to add, “There’s so much to learn. I’ve just started.” He is talking about shoe making, a craft that he learned from his uncle. Dhayalan’s hands can create magic with leather — he sees it as a canvas he can play with. The craft contributes a significant amount to the seaside town’s tourism economy — Mamallapuram’s Othavadai Street alone has around five shops that custom-make footwear.
Priced from ₹300 onwards, a pair of leather slippers can cost up to ₹1,500. Dhayalan and his colleague K Thukaram work inside the cramped shop that’s located a few metres from the beach. “I come from Poonthandalam village in Arcot. It’s been 30 years since I started making footwear,” says Dhayalan. He hasn’t gone to school or college, but the 49-year-old knows his craft like the back of his hand. He is the designer, he is the craftsman. “If all the necessary materials are available, I can make a pair in half a day,” he adds. On any given day, Dhayalan makes six pairs of footwear. At Mamallapuram, it’s common for tourists to place an order on their way to a restaurant for lunch and pick it up after their meal.
“Give me any design and I can replicate it for you,” says Senthil Kumar M, who owns Senthil Sandal Shop on Othavadai Street. The 36-year-old hails from Royapuram, and belongs to a family of shoemakers. “It’s been 21 years since I set up this shop,” he says.
Senthil has customers from as far as France, Japan, England, and Denmark. “I have shipped footwear in bulk by air to these places,” he says. Sandals hang in pairs from nails across all four walls of the tiny shop. At a corner stands a rusted iron die machine that belonged to Senthil’s grandfather. “I use it to imprint patterns on the edges of the sole,” he explains. Senthil sources his raw materials from Ranipet and Periamet.
The paduka flip-flops, which are merely a sole with a knob, are among the more popular designs. “These have been around for over five decades,” says Senthil. “I make coloured ones for the locals; tourists from foreign countries prefer the colour of leather.” K Ganesh of Ganesh Leather Works doesn’t want to look up from the sandals he’s working on. “I’ve come to the most important part,” he says, glancing up. At the entrance of his shop, an artisan is carving soles using a cutting tool. Ganesh’s shop is relatively new — it’s been around since 2004. “Half of my customers are foreigners,” he explains. Most of these craftsmen do good business from December to March. “I hardly sell anything in April, May, and June,” says Ganesh.
Thukaram is braiding strands of brown leather for a pair of gladiator sandals. The design has been clearly inspired, but the workmanship is top notch. His employer Dhayalan wants to keep improvising on his designs. “I have people showing us designs on their mobile phones; some ask us to customise patterns that we put up on display… we create something new every day.”
Which is why Dhayalan loves his job. “I see it like how a sculptor sees his work. The best part is, I get to see it take shape from scratch and see the customer’s reaction when she’s happy with the product,” he says. Dhayalan is always on the lookout for inspiration. He sits at a vantage at his shop — cross-legged on the floor, he has the best view of the footwear of passers-by. The minute he sees something interesting, he grabs the opportunity to make a note of the pattern. “I ask the person wearing it if I can take a picture or do a quick sketch in my notebook,” he explains. “Anything for a good pair of slippers.”