WHEN I FIRST saw a silk Zero + Maria Cornejo dress at the designer’s downtown New York City store in 2004, I didn’t even begin to get it. Unassuming and formless, the voluminous bias-cut dress had little hanger appeal. But I was surrounded by encouraging fashion-editor colleagues, and it was a Sunday during fashion week when I probably felt like I had nothing to wear, so I tried it on.
On the body, its genius was revealed: It was expertly pleated, flowy without being overly baggy and—most importantly—deeply flattering. I...