Manchester: The Original Modern City

HYDERABAD:  I have vivid memories of ‘Song of the Shirt’ by Thomas Hood, a poem I was taught in school. It speaks of poverty, hunger and dirt of the Industrial Revolution, which took birth in Manchester: an impoverished woman sitting in wretched conditions, toiling over the endless task of stitching shirts was the bleak picture painted by the poet. For a long time, this impression stayed in my mind till the joyful football took over and lifted Manchester from this gloom.During my recent visit, I saw the true Manchester of today - vibrant, dynamic, and cosmopolitan, a city rich in art and heritage with enviable football teams, impressive music and theatre scenes, food and fashion.
 
The Principal Manchester
As my friend and I checked into the hotel with a history dating back to 1890, what struck me most was its rich Victorian architecture melding with a magnificent terracotta facade and an impressive clock tower. Its splendid interiors, voluminous drapes, a gloriously restored glass, domed atrium, and grand spaces chiselled with shimmering marble, stone and granite: the building’s original mouldings, partitions, and stained glass windows all spell grandeur. 

In the midst of this opulence stands a stunning bronze horse in the lobby, sculpted by Sophie Dickens, the great, great granddaughter of the Victorian novelist – Charles Dickens. Close to many of the city’s attractions the hotel offered us convenience coupled with congenial hospitality. During our four- day stay, Carlos (from Venezuela) would periodically enquire after our progress in site- seeing and give tips while Eden (from Ethiopia) would serve us sumptuous breakfast every morning with a sunny smile. Joana (from Portugal) would serve hot chocolate while talking fondly of her home state Madeira (that heavenly island I missed during my visit to Portugal). 

Wood
In a brisk walk with Andy Parkinson, our host, we reached “Wood” for a fine dining experience. Simon Wood, UK’s own MasterChef is on the site every day; works closely with his team to bring powerful flavours and delivers them with authenticity. He came to our table for a friendly conversation. 
I felt too shy to take a ‘selfie’ with him…thought it might seem childish. I chose cauliflower soup and grilled salmon while Andy opted for a vegan menu. 

To my surprise enquiries, he spoke of the vegetarian movement that has its roots in Greater Manchester. In the late 1700s/early 1800s a man called Rev William Cowherd openly encouraged people to abstain from meat, and a Vegetarian Society was formed in 1847. Now, with more people going a step further to convert to veganism, many restaurants offer clever vegan tasting menus.  We ended the meal with Simon Wood’s winning entry - “Citrus tutti- frutti”, a deliriously delicious dessert and added a sinful “Yorkshire Rhubarb and white chocolate” to it.
 
Canal Walk
We had a delightful walk with our guide Sue McCarthy along the canals, watching ducks that were waddling in peaceful waters. Castle Field is the site of the city’s first human settlement in 79 AD. With the remnants of Roman Era dominating, this waterside neighbourhood is incredibly picturesque, partitioned by winding canals, and dotted with renovated industrial warehouses turned into swanky pubs and bars.
 
Museum of Science and Industry
Here we saw a huge collection of vintage vehicles and historic working machinery and steam-powered machines in action: giving us an idea of how the Industrial Revolution started in Manchester and transformed Britain’s cities and the lives of its people. It was quite amusing to see the world’s first computer with a stored program and memory, nicknamed “Baby”. It was developed at the University of Manchester and ran its first program in 1948.

 A board alongside said, “The iPads in this display are about 10,000 times faster than the Baby”John Rylands LibraryThis century-old Neo-Gothic architecture masterpiece with the most spectacular library settings was a gift to Manchester and its people. The library’s rare collections include exquisite medieval illuminated manuscripts. It is said that the magnificent Historic Reading Room on the first floor was noted for the pleasant contrast between the ‘sullen roar’ of Manchester and the ‘internal cloister quietude of Rylands’. The portrait statues of John and Enriqueta Rylands in white marble at either end dominated the quiet reading alcoves.
 
Royal Exchange
The former cotton-trading centre is now a striking theatre space resembling a lunar spacecraft set down amidst the stunning glass domes and towering pink Corinthian columns, seating an audience of up to 800 on three levels. We had to literally strain our necks to study the imposing grand structure.
 
Mackie Mayor
That evening, Andy had a surprise for us, a dinner in the former meat market building! My initial shudder turned into a smile as I entered “The Mackie Mayor”- it is now a vibrant, bustling eatery with an unmatched charm. In disrepair for decades, it was brought back to life in 2017 with innovative food courts. Good, they did it: I found it unbelievably pretty! Sipping an inventive melon-lemon drink, soaking in its warmth and vitality, I ate a delicious vegan pizza sitting in a former meat market building.
(The author is a documentary filmmaker and travel writer; she blogs at  vijayaprataptravelandbeyond.com)