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    Just the Crêpe You’re Craving

    A classic buckwheat crêpe filled with ham and cheese will always evoke Paris. But sometimes you crave something lighter, more citrusy, with a dollop of honey-sweet yogurt. Here, a recipe to suit each mood

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    ON MY FIRST trip to Paris, it was sticky midsummer, I’d just turned seventeen and I thought I was there to study art. But it was the street food that bewitched me. I ate like a flâneuse: a cornet of strawberry ice cream on the way to morning class, a buttered baguette jammed with ham around 11 and, from a kiosk under my apartment, tender crepes flurried with sugar or dripping with molten cheese whenever I damn well pleased. I had no idea I was so young and lucky and free.

    A recent purge of my basement unearthed a carbon-steel...

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