A Costa Rican Paradise, Made to Order for Travelers

The new resort development of Las Catalinas is wooing tourists with its small-town vibe and bohemian-luxe amenities. But can a purpose-built Shangri-La ever feel authentic?

JUST OFF a protected beach on Costa Rica’s Pacific Coast, the year-old Casa Chameleon, an adults-only hotel, sits high on a ridge overlooking a small town. One morning last spring, while the honeymooners were still sleeping, I returned to my villa from snorkeling in the bay to find my “house mama” cutting fruit. “Eggs?” she asked as she poured me coffee. I took my cup out onto the terrace and barely had time to turn on the ceiling fan before she came out with an omelet and pitcher of just-squeezed orange juice.

Everyone’s...