Why Chablis Is Our Wine Columnist’s Go-To White

This white Burgundy is crisp, flinty, bright and a pleasure to drink. Lettie Teague recommends the best (and best-value) bottles out there now

WHEN ASKED TO NAME my favorite wine, I usually reply: “The one I’m drinking right now.” There is, however, a wine I drink more often than any other, one that accounts for a large part of my cellar, that is my “safety” selection when dining out. That wine is Chablis.

Produced in France, in the northernmost Burgundy region of the same name, Chablis is truly unique. Made from the Chardonnay grape, it doesn’t taste like any other Chardonnay in the world. Words like “steely,” “flinty” and “minerally” typically describe Chablis;...