Michael Deacon reviews Bombay Bustle, London: 'We looked as if we’d just murdered an Oompa Loompa'

4
Bombay Bustle
Our critic offered himself as 
a prize and ended up at 
a winning Indian restaurant Credit: Jasper Fry

Say you work in an office in Mumbai. What do you do for lunch? Chances are you get a delivery. But not a delivery from a takeaway restaurant.

A delivery from home.

Every morning in the suburbs of India’s biggest city, thousands of men – known as dabbawalas – go from door to door, collecting lunchboxes prepared by wives and mothers. The boxes – known as dabbas – are made of metal, to keep their freshly cooked contents hot, and laid out in compartments, to keep the rice, bread and curry separate.

Between them, the dabbawalas collect no fewer than 130,000 dabbas, and 
then transport them, first by bike 
and then by train, to their intended recipients. They pride themselves on never, ever delivering the wrong lunch to the wrong man.

What makes this boast remarkable is that most dabbawalas can’t read. Instead of a label stating the recipient’s name and address, they rely on a system of coloured...

To continue reading this article

Start a 30-day free trial for unlimited access to Premium articles

  • Unlimited access to Premium articles 
  • Subscriber-only events and experiences
  • Cancel any time

Free for 30 days

then only £2 per week

Save 25% with an annual subscription

Just £75 per year

 

Register for free and access one Premium article per week