This is a cake for those who care enough to fuss.
Even better, it’s a cake for those who want the object of their fussing to think that countless hours, hand cramps and a certain head-over-heels giddiness went into making such a Valentine’s Day dessert. The truth — shhhh — is that it’s not so difficult.
Ross Sveback of Afton, Minn., created this cake, which he called Shades of Love. This cake clearly lends some style to a Valentine’s meal, but also to any spring gathering where you want to make a splash.
Still, as with so many “aspirational” recipes, we wondered: Is this possible to make without the aid of a patisserie degree or fancy equipment? No question, it helps to know your way around the kitchen, and you do need an electric stand mixer. But the “wow” factor is based in a careful use of food coloring and the ability to squeeze frosting through a plastic bag. In other words, you can do this.
Before breaking an egg, though, read the recipe several times and map out a timeline. Here’s why: The first step of the frosting needs to chill in the refrigerator overnight. Butter and cream cheese should be at room temperature. The cake layers are most easily frosted if they’re chilled. The cake also benefits from a few hours in the refrigerator or a cool garage or porch before serving. So don’t start the cake on Feb. 14.
Sveback’s cake was inspired by the shaded or ombre (or gradation) colors from fashion trends. His frosting, however, comes straight from Grandma. It’s a bit unusual, starting with mixing a simple syrup into beaten eggs and whites, chilling this until it separates, then discarding the foam. Sveback recalled his grandmother said this step, and using shortening, are the keys to a particularly silken buttercream.
Grandma knew what she was talking about. The frosting is creamy enough to be piped easily using only the proper tip and a plastic sandwich bag, which isn’t always the case with stiffer mixtures.
Experts, of course, will use a pastry bag, but we’ve explored several ways in which the home baker with basic kitchen supplies can replicate this look.
Bottom line: This cake is well within reach of home bakers who want to dazzle their darlings on Valentine’s Day. Just be prepared for those darlings to reach back.
NOT A PASTRY CHEF?
NOT A PROBLEM
It’s possible to get professional results with less-than-professional equipment — or at least come close enough. Here are some tips we learned in trying to replicate Ross Sveback’s Shades of Love cake at home.
Sveback used Americolor gel food coloring for his shades in increments of Soft Pink and Electric Pink for the cake tones, and Holiday Red and Tulip Red for the frosting. We used only a red food coloring, Wilton “No Taste” Red icing color, in varying amounts to create four shades of pink.
Instead of using and cleaning a pastry bag between each frosting color, we used plastic sandwich bags. Just make sure the tip fits snugly into the hole you snipped in the corner.
Sveback likes the look of a tall 6-inch cake (it took us back to days of Easy-Bake ovens), but should you not want to buy new ones, the more common 8-inch pans will work, too.
The frosting recipe makes about 7 cups, which is more than the 5 to 5 ½ cups you’ll need for the cake. If you are baking 8-inch layers, you’ll want the extra frosting. Otherwise, freeze it to use on cupcakes or a sheet cake — or even put it between graham crackers to create a snack for the kids.
Using an offset spatula, which bends where it meets the handle, makes frosting easier.
Sveback says the cake holds well up to a week if kept chilled and the cut surface wrapped. If you have a large enough bowl (we used the one from our salad spinner), invert it over the cake to cover it.
