Each week, the Open Thread newsletter will offer a look from across The New York Times at the forces that shape the dress codes we share, with Vanessa Friedman as your personal shopper. The latest newsletter appears here. To receive it in your inbox, register here.
Hello and happy February. We have made it through the first (very cold) month of 2018 — and a year of Donald J. Trump’s Presidency. Hooray.
It was a week of pointed public dressing moments, from the Grammys, with their white roses, to the State of the Union, with its assorted dress codes, but hands-down the most gushed-over, gasped-about and otherwise glorified of them all was the premiere of the film “Black Panther” in Los Angeles.
From the purple carpet (maybe those Pantone folks really were on to something when they declared the color of 2018 was ultraviolet) to the “regal” dress code, the event was the opposite of the usual parade of staid taffeta mermaid dresses, and the Internet went into a paroxysm of delight.
It wasn’t that the actors didn’t wear the usual fashion — Lupita Nyong’o was in purple Versace with a jewel-studded harness; Chadwick Bozeman in gold and black floral Emporio Armani; Angela Bassett in a fringed yellow jumpsuit by Naeem Khan — it was that it was such an exuberant version of the usual fashion.
And, my guess is, it is also a hint of what is to come. Not just with the film, which officially opens on the 16th, but also with the runway. Every once in a while a movie catches both the public and designer imagination (it happened with “Wonder Woman” last year) — all signs suggest this is going to be one of them.
Reviews are not out until next week, but reactions have leaked on social media and they are almost universally ecstatic.
You know what that means: catwalk influence!
The question, for me, is what form the influence will take. Most of the clothes at the premiere were abstractly linked to the film’s story and setting — either royal or primary colored — but others had more overt African references. That was fine for the purple carpet, since it was connected to the movie, but taken out of context and plunked on a European catwalk could easily prompt charges of cultural appropriation.
It’s going to be a fine balancing act, and it will be interesting to see how it plays out.
Meanwhile, for your reading pleasure may I suggest this profile of Rande Gerber, the patriarch of modeling’s first family, a sneak peek at Ansel Elgort’s next movie, and the strange story of the controversial Norwegian ski team sweaters. Also a suggestion: Rest up this weekend and drink your green juice. Fashion month starts next Thursday (argh! argh!) and we are all going to need our strength.
Your Style Questions, Answered
Every week on Open Thread, Vanessa will answer a reader’s fashion-related question, which you can send to her anytime via email or Twitter. Questions are edited and condensed.
Q: I’m 53 years old, work as a school counselor, and I try to look professional, but I’m stymied by fashion trends. Are skinny jeans in or out? And, are they appropriate for women my age? (I’m slender, athletic, but don’t want to be pushing it.) I’m not allowed to wear jeans at school but don’t want to end up wearing granny-looking trousers, either. Please help. — Leya, Boston
A: Two words: Brigitte Macron. The wife of the French President is, as it happens, a former schoolteacher, 64 years old, much heralded for her sense of style — and one of her go-to uniforms is skinny jeans, a jacket, a button-down shirt and pumps.
A few things, however, to keep in mind. First, if you can’t wear jeans to school, go for similar chino or jersey styles in basic shades, but remember: Not all skinny pants are created equal. Stay away from jeggings, or any styles that are so sucked-in they make your legs into sausages. Choose silhouettes that are slightly cropped at the ankle, which will add length.
Second, it helps if the jacket is a similar color to the pants, and has a neat, tailored line with strong shoulders and even a nipped-in waist. You can also add a silk scarf for polish. Avoid sneakers and opt for heels, sensible or not, for sophistication. If it works in the Élysée, it can work for you. — VANESSA FRIEDMAN