The Boatmen of Brahmaputra

Shalini Saksena, who is in Guwahati for the Rongali Mahotsav, talks to a few boatmen who ferry people to the island Uma Devi temple in Brahmaputra

Sitting on the banks of the mighty Brahmaputra one realise why the river creates fear in the minds of the locals. The boatmen who ferry locals and tourists to and fro the Uma Devi temple tell you that when the river is in spate, you don’t want to be anywhere near it.

Ask them why there are no proper steps leading to the boats, after all many elderly visit the temple, one is told that there is no point. “The river eats up everything when the levels rise. There was a time when there were proper steps. Now only eight-10 are left” Digendar Das, a ferryman tells you.

“Those are the days when even we don't venture into the river. There is Government advisor and all ferrying stops — sometimes for up to more than a week,” Ajay Das an owner of a motorised boat tells you.

Like Das, there are others who eke out their living ferrying people. On an average, during season —November to January — 200 people per day visiting the temple. However, if one sat long enough, one will notice that the number is higher. In one trip alone they take 20 people. And each boat makes around 5-6 trips in a day or maybe more given the fact that their day starts at 8 am and ends at 7 pm.

Das tells you that while the Government that charge around Rs 10 per person, they charge Rs 60 person to and fro. The difference in the rate is because they are a private body and on lease. They need to pay Rs 7 per person to the leases.

“We get a salary — Rs 300 per person per day. The three months starting from November are peak seasons. After that only locals visit since it is exam time. Then rains start in June. Those are hard times. That is when we have to sit at home and eat into our savings. But we manage. Our wants are small. There are 14 boats at this Kasari ghat.  Each boat is manned by three men — one to is us at the helm, one to man the machine and another to ensure public safety,” Das tells you.

However, tourists need to negotiations. While Das says that they charge Rs 60, you may end up paying double the amount. Do decide on the price before you take the rise.

Riju Kakoti, another boat owner tells you that in order to ensure that each one of them ends up with money at the end of the day, they pool the money. “It all goes into one kitty and at the end of the day, the earnings are equally divided. This way, everyone is happy and there is no competition,” Kakoti explains.

Evening comes and the boatmen with their boats head home which is in North Guwahati covering an approximate distance of 3-4 km — the width of the night naadi.

While the boatmen are at present eking  out a living, they tell you that the talks are on for connecting Uma Devi temple by building a road.

“It is bound to cut our income. But we will tackle the situation when we have to cross the bridge  (literally).  Yes, we will be disadvantaged but at least the public will have it easy. We should not be selfish when it comes to God” Das says.

We get a salary of Rs 300 per day. The three months starting from November are peak seasons. After that only locals visit since it is exam time. Then rains start in June. Those are hard times. That is when we have to sit at home and eat into our savings

— Ajay Das, an owner of a motorised boat