Can selling a good burger at a good price lead to societal change?
That’s the hope of noted chefs Daniel Patterson (Coi) and Roy Choi (Kogi). Two years ago they launched what they call a “revolutionary” quick-service restaurant concept aimed at underserved communities in Northern and Southern California. It’s focused on neighborhood employees and a menu that’s tasty, healthy — but as affordable as fast food.
Now, they’ve expanded beyond Watts in Los Angeles and West Oakland. Their newest LocoL opened Tuesday inside a Whole Foods store in San Jose — as part of an unusual partnership with the upscale market.
Though the “affordable” LocoL model and the “affluent” Whole Foods audience may sound oxymoronic, the partnership is anything but, all involved said at a sneak preview at 777 The Alameda.
“These guys are truly upending the world of fast food” by bringing everybody to the table, Whole Foods regional president Rob Twyman said. It’s a mission that syncs up with Whole Foods’ ethos, he said, with both companies further aligned by their shared commitment to natural foods.
LocoL will expand its model by making and selling its affordable menu offerings inside the chain’s store on The Alameda — as well as doing local catering to Silicon Valley. Whole Foods will expand its reach to new communities and help LocoL through the purchasing power that a mainstream business can offer.
“By leveraging a partnership with someone who is much larger than us, we can take advantage of scale,” said LocoL investor Stephen DeBerry, founder of Bronze Investments in East Palo Alto.
But fast food in Silicon Valley at inner-city prices?
LocoL’s aim is change, not making money, they said, so the price points will remain reasonable. “When you open a venture like this, it’s not only profit,” Choi said. “It’s about serving the mission.”
If, over its 35-year history, Whole Foods can spearhead a movement for organic produce and organic detergents, “Why can’t it be done with restaurants?” Choi said.
DeBerry talked of hiring employees who don’t always have an easy way into the workforce. “The revolutionary part isn’t the food; it’s the people — especially economically empowering folks through jobs and career paths,” he said.
Those employees will staff the LocoL stand (and an onsite window counter) from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily. Patterson and Choi have pared the menu to the restaurant’s strengths.
“We wanted not to be competitive” with Whole Foods’ offerings, Patterson said, so LocoL is emphasizing something the store doesn’t already make onsite: a “great cheeseburger” for $6 and “foldies,” a cross between a taco and a quesadilla, for $3 each. A combo with French fries and an agua fresca goes for $9.
The burger is two-thirds beef and one-third tofu and grains, and the buns are baked every morning in Oakland. Foldies are filled with either bean and cheese or beef machaca. Veggie burgers are also available.
As with many lower-priced economic models, LocoL will depend on a high volume of sales to succeed — and to enable its creators to expand their vision of people over corporate profits, DeBerry said. Besides the eatery, LocoL operates a catering service and a nonprofit, The Cooking Project, that allows contributors to order trays of food to be delivered to communities or groups in need.
“Thirty-five years from now, if Watts and West Oakland are the same as they are now, then who are we as people?” Choi said.
