Your guide to the first luxury watch fair of the year

The Swiss watch industry is coming out of a slump and has posted sustained growth for eight continuous months between April and November, 2017. The December figures are awaited, but won’t be disappointing is my guess — and that’s great news for the luxury watch industry.

What’s also heartening is a strong recovery in all key markets including Hong Kong, China, Japan, the US and most of Europe. No wonder then that the excitement at the forthcoming Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH 2018), starting this Monday in Geneva, is palpable. From what I have seen and heard so far, here are some of my favourites that will create a flutter at SIHH.

Big players return

If you’re not familiar with SIHH, here’s a tip. Cartier is the big daddy of the fair, known for its huge, stylish salons and insane number of new references, some years surpassing 100. In 2018, the French luxury house is picking two of its icons — the Baignoire and the Crash — and breathing new life into them. Of the four limited-edition Baignoire models, the most spectacular is the 15-piece Baignoire Etoilée in white gold case, with a crystalline cascade of glittering diamonds and black spinels. The contrasting colours of black and white cast illusions around a small dial set with a double row of stones.

And how can I not be excited about the new Crash, a radical reinterpretation of Cartier’s iconic piece from 1967. Did you know it was an accidental design, inspired by the remains of a Cartier timepiece retrieved from a blazing car crash? Melted and distorted beyond recognition, a mangled Baignoire Allongé model led to the launch of the one-of-a-kind watch. Cartier brings it alive this year by taking the concept a step further. Crash Radieuse has a crushed dial with gadroons and outsized Roman numerals, taking the shocking design to the extreme. Housed with a manual Manufacture movement, available in yellow gold, the special Crash Radieuse will be limited to 50 pieces only.

For the globetrotter

The marquee Geneva-based watchmaker Vacheron Constantin is upgrading the hugely popular Overseas line with a dual time model designed for reliable and elegant wear in every situation.

The brand new mechanical automatic house calibre — 5110 DT — enables simultaneous reading of two time zones. Comprising 234 parts, the movement oscillates at 4Hz frequency and has a commanding 60 hours power reserve, thanks to its twin barrels. However, what make the Overseas models stand out today are their interchangeable straps in alligator leather, rubber and steel.

Speaking to me exclusively for Weekend, Christian Selmoni, Style and Heritage Director, Vacheron Constantin said, “We have the good fortune of being a heritage brand with timeless products and we continue to design classically-styled watches. The new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time, at SIHH 2018, is the latest addition to the brand’s relaunched Overseas collection. In a tribute to the model’s sporty origins, the new collection will join the adventure equipped with the eponymous function of two time zones, much favoured by globetrotters.”

Marking milestones

Continuing the trend of upgrading popular models, Girard-Perregaux is leaving no stone unturned in launching a white ceramic version of its hugely successful sporty Laureato line, in a unisex 38mm size. The famous octagonal bezel of the new Laureato 38 mm Ceramic has a radiant look, with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds. Playing on contemporary codes, the Laureato is also available with a rubber strap.

Speaking to me on the expectations from the forthcoming Geneva fair, Girard-Perregaux’s CEO Antonio Calce commented, “Girard-Perregaux at SIHH 2018 will make you feel the emotion with our totally new and modern booth. This year, we make a full leap. We are turning great watchmaking into contemporary art.”

Meanwhile, IWC celebrates a huge landmark this year as the watchmaker from Schaffhausen turns 150. And to celebrate this milestone, the company is unveiling a special Jubilee collection comprising 27 limited-edition models from their famous Portugieser, Portofino, Pilot’s Watches and DaVinci collections. The highlight is the launch of its first ever wristwatch featuring the original digital hours and minute display as it appeared on the Pallweber pocket watches way back in 1884. One aesthetic element that all these timepieces have in common is their imprinted dial in white or blue, achieved by applying several layers of lacquer, just as was done by the enamel artists of the past.

CEO of IWC Schaffhausen, Christoph Grainger-Herr, said, “Our founder’s entrepreneurial spirit and his untiring quest for engineering excellence have left a lasting impression on IWC. To this day, our watches combine precision engineering with design that is as unusual as it is timeless. Our Jubilee collection revisits icons from the history of IWC and unifies them through a timeless design code to form a unique and impressive collection.”

Timely tributes

Earlier in 2017, Baume & Mercier had announced its partnership with Indian Motorcycle, America’s First Motorcycle Company. From this unique collaboration came about a beautiful timepiece — The Clifton Club Burt Munro Tribute Limited Edition. This 1,967 pieces limited edition chronograph model honours the motorcycle racing legend Burt Munro. The timepiece was first showcased at EICMA, the world's most important motorcycle show held in Milan, Italy, in November last year, and afficionados can get a closer look at SIHH 2018.

This watch features a number of special details designed to commemorate the extraordinary achievement of Munro — the large, yellow number 35, Munro’s lucky number, in the chronograph seconds counter or the Indian Red colour of the calfskin strap that can be identified with the Indian Motorcycle Company.

The sandblasted and snailed-finished dial in silver is meant to remind us of the surface of the Bonneville Salt Flats, where Munro set the 1000cc class record of 184.087mph in 1967. Engraved on the caseback is the famous Indian headdress logo of the Indian Motorcycle Company.

The writer is president and publisher of the Chitralekha Group and president, The Horologists