Burgundy is one of my favourite wine regions. From the cranberry-and-violet-scented Pinot Noirs with that fetching earthy undertow to the elegant Chardonnays that unfurl with nuance after nuance, these wines can taste truly magnetic. But global demand keeps pushing prices up and availability down, making it tough to drink the better bottles on the regular. Good news is, Ontario makes some very good Pinot Noir and Chardonnay too in a style that’s not too dissimilar to Burgundian versions — just taste these five fine examples to see what I mean.
2016 G. Marquis Pinot Noir, VQA Niagara on the Lake, Ontario (Vintages Essential $19.95 in stores and online)
This pretty Pinot Noir tastes lifted and pure with classic flavours and aromas of cranberry, raspberry and crushed violet. Love the delicacy here, created by elegant tannins and precise balance that make the wine seem subtle and stylish — so inviting. Then, a gentle tug of cranberry bitters on the finish cleanses the palate beautifully. For a great match, pour this wine with that French Canadian pork paté, cretons! My neighbour always makes me a batch this time of year, and it tastes just right with this style of drop.
Score: 90
2016 Arterra Chardonnay, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario ($29.95 available at Wine Rack stores)
A year ago, I swooned a little over the 2015 vintage of this then-new Ontario wine, awarding it 91 points. But the 2016 tastes even better — just delicious. It starts with seductive scents of lemon oil, white blossoms, vanilla custard and a hovering note of beeswax somewhere before the cool, crisp entry quickly expands with almost-mouthcoating notes of crème brûlée, lemon zest and grapefruit. Slowly, the flavours taper calling to mind salted grapefruit peel. Pour this sophisticated, full-bodied Chardonnay with pasta and seafood tossed in a cream sauce.
Score: 91+
2015 Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario (Vintages Essential 302083 $24.95 in stores and online)
I poured a bottle of this wine over the holidays for dinner guests and they all loved it. It’s a stunning cool-climate Chardonnay. The restrained scents of lemon zest, salt and stone; smooth almost oily texture; and understated flavours of lemon oil, buttered popcorn and white peach purée — all shot through with balancing acidity makes it taste instantly alluring and supremely drinkable. For a surefire pairing, serve it with broiled seafood with lots of butter for dipping.
Score: 91
2014 Flat Rock Cellars The Rusty Shed Chardonnay, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario (Vintages 1552 $21.75 in stores only)
There’s not a lot of this wine left at the LCBO but it’s a prime example of the heights to which Chardonnay can climb in Ontario. Little surprise it won gold at the 2017 Ontario Wine Awards. And the price makes it a steal — so well worth a mention. Expect smoky citrus, warm flint, baked pear, marzipan, honeysuckle and creamy lime curd flavours abound on the nose and palate; a polished mouth feel; and a subtle burnt sugar finish that lingers for ages. Just a stunning wine to pour — especially with a simple fish dish.
Score: 96
2015 Hidden Bench Chardonnay, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario (Vintages 68817 $29.95 in stores only)
This Chardonnay hails from one of the better estates in Niagara well-known for making sophisticated expressions of local terroir — and this bottling is no exception. Warm smoked nut, bitter orange peel and slate aromas draw you in before the cool, brisk attack of mixed citrus edged with toffee and toasted oak race across the palate while saturating it with flavour. Texturally, the wine feels more like velvet than silk in the mouth while the firm spine of acidity tastes taut and refreshing. My favourite way to pour this wine is with cheese in the afternoon.
Score: 89
Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer. She is also a London-trained sommelier and two-time bestselling wine book author. Reach her at carolyn@carolynevanshammond.com.