Shallots, garlic and herbed yogurt enhance this quick-braised cod. Credit Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

There are “fishy” fish, and then there are non-fishy fish. And with its mild, milky flesh, cod is one of the least fishy of them all.

Usually, I’m drawn to the more robust varieties — the mackerels, sardines, anchovies and swordfish in the market, which have enough personality to take whatever seasoning I feel like throwing at them. This gives me the kind of fridge-clearing, spice-sprinkling latitude I need to get really creative.

Simplicity is key in this recipe, which comes together in less than 30 minutes. Credit Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

But milder fish can also be appealing, especially cod, which has a fresh, saline taste that can also be sweet. To fully appreciate its subtle flavor, it’s best to keep things simple when preparing it.

The good thing about this kind of simplicity is that it can also mean speed. The fewer things you have to chop, peel, squeeze, seed, grind or otherwise deal with when cooking, the faster your dinner will come together. Minimalism is your friend on any given weeknight.

In this recipe, the only ingredients to prepare are shallots, garlic and some fresh herbs: It’s labor you can do while your skillet heats up. Once it’s hot, you’ll quickly braise the cod fillets and shallots in butter, white wine and a handful of herb sprigs.

The shallots are cooked in white wine before the cod is added. Credit Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

Then, while the fish firms up in the pan, you’ll have ample time to mix the sauce: a swirl of garlic, yogurt and whatever those herbs were that you just chopped. Or you can make the sauce ahead. It will keep for a week in the fridge, and it is so good on roasted or raw vegetables that you might even consider a double batch.

That’s it, and the payoff is big: A dinner of meltingly tender, butter-infused cod enhanced but not overwhelmed by the tart, herb-speckled yogurt sauce. Add a spinach salad and crusty bread, or maybe some mashed potatoes if you’re in full-on comfort food mode, and you’ve got a cozy dinner that’s after-work friendly.

Like most very simple dishes, this one depends heavily on the quality of the ingredients. So when it comes to the fish, it’s better to go for what looks gorgeous in the market rather than sticking to the recipe. If the cod that’s available seems mushy, choose something perkier and more pristine. Another mild fish — hake, flounder or sea bass — will keep the gentle spirit of the recipe intact.

Recipe: Quick-Braised Cod With Herbed Yogurt

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