Venezuela may be facing a great economic crisis but they won’t let it mess with their Christmas. That’s what I discovered. Watching them celebrate was enough to put a smile on my face once again. (The smile had disappeared when I saw the hardships they were facing.)
I am in Caracas for Christmas and I am glad I made the choice. The celebrations begin on December 16 and I can’t wait. Every morning there is Mass — and this is known as Misas de Aguinaldo, which continues till the 24th, Nochebuena de Navidad — Christmas Eve.
Dawn is welcomed with the pealing of church bells and firecrackers. “To wake up lazy worshippers!” said Matías, my friend in Caracas. “The devout people, they need no bells or firecrackers to wake up. They attend the mass and the carol services. Gaitas and Christmas music can be heard everywhere, yes? It is fun.”
All streets are closed to vehicular traffic till 8 a.m. Do you know why? I’ll tell you...and it’s sure to surprise you. Children are sent to bed early, so that they are not tired the next morning when they wake up to attend Mass. And, you know what? The kids tie a bit of string to their toes and let it hang out of the window onto the road. Strange, eh?
Oh! Happy day
The mornings are sure to be spectacular. At first light the place is waking up. Bells are ringing, firecrackers are going off, and down the road come roller skaters — happy and smiling. As they pass the windows with strings hanging down, (remember, I told you earlier about kids tying strings to their toes?) they give it a gentle tug to wake up the child for Mass.
The skaters go all the way up to church, sometimes even into the church. They carry with them an extra pair of shoes, to wear during the service.
Matías is animated, his eyes are gleaming and he throws his hand all over, as he speaks of Christmas. He says, “After the Mass we go out and eat tostados and drink coffee...yes! A happy time. Many people, they open their homes and give everyone coffee and the hot chocolate, the arepitas dulces de anis (adelicacy)and even the first hallacas (a roll made with corn with a stuffing of your choice) of the season on hand for any who walked up.”
Christmas Eve or Nochebuena is more important that the Day itself. Everyone goes for midnight Mass — Misa de Gallo. When they get home they sit down and enjoy a huge, fancy dinner. “It is a time for families to get together, to eat, enjoy and be happy....and also to thank Jesus for this special Christmas night, La Navidad.”