Chefs get ‘curried’ away

When the British ruled India, they liked to keep the best cooks of curry in their service. Even when they left in 1947, they took some of the chefs along, as their palate was now used to the hot and spicy dish. Years down the line, Britain is ready to welcome them with open arms again, if its immigration gates were not shut.

In 2015, when chicken tikka masala was declared as one of national dishes of Britain, it was up there with roast beef and fish-and-chips. However, the honour isn't enough to satisfy the local demand, since the UK has a shortage of curry chefs. The estimated 3.6-billion-pound (Rs 31,078 crore) British curry industry, comprising restaurants with roots in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, is feared to be closing at a rate of four places a week due to a clampdown on visas they use to bring in chefs from the Indian subcontinent.

Harsher and harsher immigration laws have made restaurants unable to hire the skilled chefs they need, which makes it difficult for the food business to grow, satisfy its customers, and fulfil orders. Britain's Liberal Democrat party leader Sir Vince Cable called on the government to introduce temporary 'vindaloo' visas to address the severe staff shortage being faced by the curry restaurants in Britain. The temporary visa will be valid for a year and open to chefs from the Indian subcontinent to help address the crisis facing the UK curry industry.

Oz wizardry required

The British food industry was hoping for an Australian 'points-style' immigration system, which will allow them to import chefs from India and Bangladesh to reduce the crisis. However, one of Theresa May's first announcements after becoming Prime Minister was to rule out a system of this sort, which put curbs on hiring professional chefs.

The British Curry Awards analysis suggests that 50% of all curry restaurants—nearly 6,000—are expected to shut down permanently within 10 years. Celebrity chef Harpal Singh Sokhi says: "The demand for good curry chefs have been there in Britain for the past 10 years. The most important factor is to get the authentic taste. And Indian food in the UK has matured over time. You have every class of chef in Britain. The country's restaurants are hungry for Michelin stars and the people over there for good curry for their meal."

He says: "Even the true-bred British understand chicken tikka masala. British people experiment with Indian food in their homes and this has increased over the last few years. The acceptance even at the local level is very high."

No specific course

There is no specific course on how to make different types of curries. Prakarshi Pulkit, a hotel management student from Chandigarh, says: "There is no particular course for this. You have to go through a hotel management institute, following which you get experience from a restaurant. To some, the recipe comes naturally, while to others, it comes over a time."

British Curry Awards founder Enam Ali, MBE, restaurateur, and editor of trade publication Spice Business, said in an interview at the 13th annual awards: "Theresa May commended our industry as a shining example of hard work. Now, a curry restaurant closes every week because of the new rules that stop experienced curry chefs from India or Bangladesh from coming over. This new legislation has been strangling our industry."

Authenticity crisis

Vishal Kapoor, chief executive officer of hotel Cabbana in Phagwara, says: "The demand (for curry chefs) has been there (in Britain) for some time now. A lot of these small takeaways and curry restaurants have opened up in the UK. Many Pakistanis and Bangladeshis serve Indian food there but it is not authentic. There is a clear line between authentic Indian restaurants those only claiming to be. The palate for delicacies such as naan, lachha parantha, tandoori chicken, and biryani is something that the British people have always loved."

To Kapoor, the increase in demand comes as no surprise. The demand for curry cooks is a good sign for the Indian chefs who look for an opportunity to work in the UK. His advice: "Now is the right time to take your shot."

How much dough can you make

Current immigration rules stipulate that a chef from outside the UK must be paid £29,570 (Rs 25.52 lakh) a month after deductions for accommodation and meals, which is too expensive for most curry restaurants

UK's Top 5 Indian restaurants

Tamarind; Valley Junction 397; Prithvi; Quilon and Nu Delhi Lounge

UK's Top 5 Indian dishes

Chicken tikka masala; Butter chicken; Rogan josh; Malai kofta and Chhole​