If red lipstick was a hallmark of the 40s, and eyeliner the sign of the 60s, then highlighter is the must-have makeup of this decade. Cheekbones have never had such prominence — everywhere you look today, people are baking and sculpting their faces. Kim Kardashian can wholly be credited with the rise of contouring. But when Gigi Hadid replaced Kim K as the new It girl, she also replaced angular sculpting with its gentler, more luminescent cousin, strobing. Because Gigi’s round face could not be made angular with layers of deep bronzer, she highlighted her bone structure with illuminating powder, placed strategically on spots where the light hits naturally. Unlike contouring, strobing doesn’t require any makeup skill. It’s all about finding the right product, and placement.
I recently attended a small workshop for Estee Lauder where they were launching their new Double Wear Nude Water Fresh Foundation. Every beauty blogger worth her salt was at the event, and they all had two things in common — false eyelashes and highlighted cheekbones. Personally, I’m not a fan of falsies but strobing definitely gets my vote. Estee Lauder has an amazing Illuminating Powder Gelee, part of their Bronze Goddess Collection, which is a beige-gold shade that can be made as subtle, or as standout, as you want.
Personally, I prefer creamy illuminators because they can be sheered out and built up quite easily. One of my all time favourites is Kevyn Aucoin The Celestial Skin Liquid in Candlelight. The formula is so finely milled that it’s impossible to see specks of shimmer. The result is that your face looks naturally glowing, instead of done up and shimmery. In the day I pat it on to my cheekbones and temples under a dusting of face powder, so the glow just kind of peeks through.
Then there’s Becca, who made millions just off their illuminating formulas. Their Shimmering Skin Perfector Poured Creme in Opal is my favourite for fair to medium complexions, and Topaz for dark skin tones. This product too makes your skin pop, without the shimmer. Honestly, I believe that if your makeup can be seen then it’s not good quality at all. This is why I love RMS Beauty Living Luminiser, Benefit Sun Beam, and Guerlain Meteorites, because they all make your skin look better.
Highlighters should make you look like you’ve come back from a restful holiday, not like you’re heading to a nightclub . But that said, when you are going to the club, you need something with a little more shine. And for that nothing beats Fenty Beauty’s Killawatt Freestyle Highlighter. This little powder compact holds a subtle and standout version of the same shade. I have one called Mean Money/Hu$la Baby, which I have been reaching out for, everytime I have an evening event.
For years I thought highlighters were not my thing because I felt like they just accentuated open pores and old acne scars. Turns out I was wearing it wrong. If you have oily breakout prone, or rough looking skin, then dust it from your brow bone in a V-shape to the area right on top of your cheekbone, just under the eye. If the area on the side of your eyes and temples is smooth then brush it on there too. Take a fluffy eyeshadow or blender brush to be precise with your application. Use a pore-minimising primer like Smashbox Photo Finish to give a smooth base for the highlighter.
At the risk of sounding clichéd, let me end with a reminder that real glow comes from good sleep, three litres of water and excellent skincare.
A fortnightly column to remind you about all things skin deep